kylendm
Well-known member
How do i make my RM100 head to a 50watt? Which tubes do i take out and i have the amp set to 16 ohms and the cab to 16. What should that be changed to?
100 to 50
- Thread starter kylendm
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JKMV12
Well-known member
as far as i know, you can either take out the outer two tubes or their fuses to make it 50W. i'm not sure about the ohms.
kc2eeb
Well-known member
Switch the impedance to 8.
kylendm
Well-known member
alright cool, thanks 
Julia
Well-known member
Baco said:
Are these the original E34Ls? Is it the same fuses? Or does the event move around? If it's the same fuses it's those tubes. If it moves around, I'll bet the entire quad is bad.
In any event, the fuses are blowing for a reason, and considering these are the ones that affect the tubes, it is most likely the power tubes. When a single tube in a quad fails, it is typical that the entire quad will soon go anyway. So I'd go ahead and replace them -- the entire quad -- with a new matched quad. You don't want to risk taking out a screen grid -- this will put your amp in the shop for several weeks.
Order some 400 mA Fast Blo Little Fuses (per Randall) on Amazon.com. Grab a good matched quad of 6L6s from either Ruby or GT. I go with the matched quad because that means at least they were plugged in and tested. Ruby warranties tubes for 6 months. Groove Tubes for 3 months.
My original quad of E34Ls lasted just over 3 months. On another amp the E34Ls lasted 3 weeks. On another amp the 6L6s lasted a year. On another amp (not mine) a pair of 5881s lasted 14 yrs. It just depends upon how lucky you are.
Tubes can also go bad straight out of the box. I had a quad of Sovtek 5881WXTs go bad. One tube arced the on the second day, so I ended up taking them back to GC with the faulty tube marked.
I've also seen four consecutive matched quads of EL34s go bad straight out of the boxes at the amp tech's. FYI, they also test them at Eurotubes and I've talked to the people there and they tell me like 50% do not make it to sale, but they only sell JJs.
I'd also go with medium to late breakup if you intend to push your amp.
Julia
Well-known member
Baco said:
1. Check to see if you have the power selector switch set correctly for your area.
2. Grab a voltmeter and measure the line voltage in you outlet.
3. Call your power company and speak with an engineer about checking your power. They'll check it from the street. If it's clean there, it may be the wiring in your house, in which case ....
you've got some dirty power....
You should drop the coin on a good power conditioner like a
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PRO2500/
or if it's real bad one of these:
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AR1215/
The voltage regulator is unfortunately very expensive, but if you're getting fluctuations it is a lot cheaper than a new amp and other equipment.
These are for the US market, but I'm sure they have them in Europe for your line voltage from a more local source.
Many thanks for your answer! I suspected something like this though, so I already ordered myself a power regulator and a Furman power conditioner. I was already planning on getting myself one, but when my Lynch Box started to act up (from day one actually, I only had it for a week or 2) I decided it was really getting time to get those. I hope everything arrives quickly so that I can set my amps up and enjoy my music again without having to swap fuses regularly :?
