NAD: Randall RM80 Combo!!!!!!!!!

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JKMV12

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I just scored a great deal on an RM80. $570 shipped and paypal'd and it came with an Ultra Lead and Clean module!!! I am officially an MTS owner. It should be here this weekend. The seller said that the power tubes probably need to be changed. It has EL34's right now. I have a few questions concerning tubes:

What are the best power tubes to use with it? brand and type? Bias Level?

any other info on the amp would be appreciated as well. this is my first tube amp, so i have no idea about tube names and brands and what sounds good. please help!

some info you might need to know:

Genre: Metal; melodic death, thrash, heavy, bands like In Flames, Metallica, Megadeth, and Testament

Setup: Jackson King V with EMG 81/60. ISP Decimator, Dunlop Wah.

here are some pics:

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Thanks, John.
 
I think i'm probably going to go with 6L6's or 6V6's for power tubes, mostly b/c i'm on a tight budget and they seem to be the most affordable tubes that get lower wattage. The seller recommended i go with JJ's. what do you guys think??

Thanks, John.
 
JJ 6v6 are really great..lower volume, add a little bit of power tube squish but still a nice low end.
 
JKD said:
JJ 6v6 are really great..lower volume, add a little bit of power tube squish but still a nice low end.
thats perfect. 80W is a little too much for bedroom levels, and 50W as well. according to someone on the UG forum, the 6V6's will do about 20W. is that true?
 
+1 on the JJ 6V6s.
If you still have the chassis out of the box, check the mounting screws on the power supply board especially the two marcked "chassis ground" and make sure they're tight. Also, the vinyl is peeling back (No biggie) but,
be sure it doesn't press on the filter caps on the power supply board as you slide it into position. Better to re-glue it or trim off the excess.
Just repaired my RM50 for that problem.
 
kc2eeb said:
+1 on the JJ 6V6s.
If you still have the chassis out of the box, check the mounting screws on the power supply board especially the two marcked "chassis ground" and make sure they're tight. Also, the vinyl is peeling back (No biggie) but,
be sure it doesn't press on the filter caps on the power supply board as you slide it into position. Better to re-glue it or trim off the excess.
Just repaired my RM50 for that problem.
na, those are just the pics the seller sent me. i don't have it yet. i'll post some more pics when i get it. if i see anything unusual, i'll put up a pic. i don't know the anatomy of a tube amp, so i'm going to need some help if i find something unusual.

well 2 votes for the JJ 6V6's. hopefully my local guitar shop has 'em. i want to be able to play this thing asap.

any more suggestions?

Thanks, John.
 
Ya know "bedroom" levels is really relative. I play
my rm100 in my room at about 1-3 on the preamp and about 9 on the master with el34s and get a pretty nice tone.
 
If your local dealer doesn't have the tubes, try <doug'stubes.com>
That's where I get them and he has the "large pin" ones that you want.
He'll explain it to you if you ask him. Bias them at 19mv(ma).
 
srrdude said:
Ya know "bedroom" levels is really relative. I play
my rm100 in my room at about 1-3 on the preamp and about 9 on the master with el34s and get a pretty nice tone.
lets just say i can't get my line 6 spider past 11 o'clock, master without my parents banging on the wall to turn it down. its a 75W. so i need something that will allow me to turn it up to a level where its soft enough to not shake the house and loud enough to sound good.
 
kc2eeb said:
If your local dealer doesn't have the tubes, try <doug'stubes.com>
That's where I get them and he has the "large pin" ones that you want.
He'll explain it to you if you ask him. Bias them at 19mv(ma).
and thats for the 6V6's? what are the "large pin" ones. are they the ones that will fit in the RM80 chassis or what??

Thanks, John.
 
Do i have to change the fuse when i change the power tubes?? what do i replace it with? where would i find it? do i need a different fuse for different kinds of tubes?

Thanks, John.
 
Congrats, you've been hunting for awhile!

I would hold off on ordering replacement tubes and speakers until you get the amp in your hands..."probably needs replacing" is ambiguous. But researching tube types and brands is time consuming, so have fun! I like my 6L6s, these amps sound decent at bedroom levels. EL34s are bad news lately, a bad batch is killing amps everywhere, so stay clear.
 
crankyrayhanky said:
Congrats, you've been hunting for awhile!

I would hold off on ordering replacement tubes and speakers until you get the amp in your hands..."probably needs replacing" is ambiguous. But researching tube types and brands is time consuming, so have fun! I like my 6L6s, these amps sound decent at bedroom levels. EL34s are bad news lately, a bad batch is killing amps everywhere, so stay clear.
Thanks. The Hunt is finally over!!!! after 6-7 months of GAS and stress i finally have one, as well as four killer modules: Blackface, Clean, 1087 (earlier version), and Ultra Lead!!

Ya, i heard EL34's have been hit and mostly miss. thats why i'm going to try 6V6's or 6L6's. Probably the 6V6's b/c they aren't going to make the amp too loud. and they are affordable.

I'll probably wait for speakers, but most likely the power tubes need to be replaced, but we'll see.

Thanks, John.
 
you may as well throw KT88s and KT77s in the mix too- I haven't used them in years but I may go tube shopping myself

It will be interesting to see what you think of the BFace vs Clean- the Clean gets a lot of negative reviews around here for being-gasp-clean!...I bought one but sent it right to Salvation for a Lonestar mod.

Do you know how rare those ULeads are? That's a great pickup stock, and Pete okstrat has a Mesa Mark mod that can be done on it!

The 1086 was dissappointing to me in comparison to the PeteRecto and PeteSL+, but since that will be your only hi gainer, the Marshall mid side will probably be solid, and it has decent Plexi and clean type versatility- that scoop side is a blanketed muffled mess though...of course each module is different , maybe you'll have better luck with the stock 1086 than I did....and a 1087 Mailman mod is always lurking :D
 
crankyrayhanky said:
you may as well throw KT88s and KT77s in the mix too- I haven't used them in years but I may go tube shopping myself

It will be interesting to see what you think of the BFace vs Clean- the Clean gets a lot of negative reviews around here for being-gasp-clean!...I bought one but sent it right to Salvation for a Lonestar mod.

Do you know how rare those ULeads are? That's a great pickup stock, and Pete okstrat has a Mesa Mark mod that can be done on it!

The 1086 was dissappointing to me in comparison to the PeteRecto and PeteSL+, but since that will be your only hi gainer, the Marshall mid side will probably be solid, and it has decent Plexi and clean type versatility- that scoop side is a blanketed muffled mess though...of course each module is different , maybe you'll have better luck with the stock 1086 than I did....and a 1087 Mailman mod is always lurking :D
ya, i have pete's 1086, not stock. i got the mod b4 the custom faceplate and push/pull switch on the master volume. so i got it b4 it was the "1087" and when it was just the "mailman mod." i bought it from srommes a few months ago and i can't wait to hear it.

That Mesa Mark mod sounds like a great idea. i may have to try that.

The Lonestar Mod sounds great too. I got the Blackface at first b/c i heard it was one of the best cleans out there. but the clean modules was just an added bonus, as was the ultra lead. i didn't need them, but i thought for $570 it was a great deal.
 
I talked to Doug and he said that the plate voltage for the RM80 was too high for 6V6's. Is this true? do i need a special kind for the amp? is that what the "large pin" version is?

He said to get some Ruby 6L6's. I might do that, depending on what you guys say about the 6V6's.

Thanks, John.
 
JKMV12 said:
I talked to Doug and he said that the plate voltage for the RM80 was too high for 6V6's. Is this true? do i need a special kind for the amp? is that what the "large pin" version is?

He said to get some Ruby 6L6's. I might do that, depending on what you guys say about the 6V6's.

Thanks, John.

Did he tell you what the Plate Voltage is in the 80? IF it's 500V (same as the RM50) then the JJ 6v6 will hold up fine....but only use the JJ. (This is straight from Egnater by the way.)
 
JKD said:
JKMV12 said:
I talked to Doug and he said that the plate voltage for the RM80 was too high for 6V6's. Is this true? do i need a special kind for the amp? is that what the "large pin" version is?

He said to get some Ruby 6L6's. I might do that, depending on what you guys say about the 6V6's.

Thanks, John.

Did he tell you what the Plate Voltage is in the 80? IF it's 500V *same as the RM50) then the JJ 6v6 will hold up fine....but only use the JJ. (This is straight from Egnater by the way.)
no, he didn't say what the plate voltage was.

so JJ 6V6's only, no other brand? Is that b/c of the way they are built?

Thanks, John.
 
JJ 6V6s are built to handle the higher plate voltage. It 500V in the RM50,
RM80 and RT2/50. (I measured it.) The "large pin" refers to JJ tubes specifically. They made a run of tubes with a smaller pin diameter that was too small for some sockets and caused intermittent operation.
I use to JJ's myself. You don't have to change any fuses, but you MUST re-adjust the bias. They run much lower current than the other tubes.
 
If i'm switching out the power tubes, would it be a good idea to replace the fuses as well?? What should i switch it to?

Thanks, John
 
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