Strings.. and brightness!

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Kapo_Polenton

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So as many of you know, I'm always that annoying " amp isn't bright enough " or " module lacks definition" guy. Well let me tell you, I had forgotten the difference strings can make. I've been using Ernie Balls for past few years but wanted to try some 9.5's as 10's i liked the feel of but hated the feel of the G string. Anyway, strung my darker strat up with some GHS boomers and holy **** balls I've got spank and definition in the judge module. Can't say I am sure i like so much spank now that i have gotten use to the ernie balls, but i am going to give this a week solid playing and see what happens.

Anyone else have similar experiences? Also, what are some of the darkest strings you have tried? This might really help me tame one of my bright strats along with 250 k pots for the humbucker.
 
Kapo_Polenton said:
So as many of you know, I'm always that annoying " amp isn't bright enough " or " module lacks definition" guy. Well let me tell you, I had forgotten the difference strings can make. I've been using Ernie Balls for past few years but wanted to try some 9.5's as 10's i liked the feel of but hated the feel of the G string. Anyway, strung my darker strat up with some GHS boomers and holy **** balls I've got spank and definition in the judge module. Can't say I am sure i like so much spank now that i have gotten use to the ernie balls, but i am going to give this a week solid playing and see what happens.

Anyone else have similar experiences? Also, what are some of the darkest strings you have tried? This might really help me tame one of my bright strats along with 250 k pots for the humbucker.

I use Boomers too, 9.5 and 10's depending on the axe. Love em...Cant remember what other strings sound like because I havent deviated from that in a loooong time 8)
 
I've always found that Ernie Ball and D'Addario strings were brighter than GHS strings and I've been using Ernie Ball on both guitar and bass for more than 20 years.

I change strings every two weeks, if not sooner, and check the intonation each and every time. I don't have acidic hands but if I did, I'd probably have to change them every few days when recording because they'd dull quickly.

When recording, fresh strings, choice of bridge, tuners and nut are extremely important, as is lightly polishing the frets with .0000 grade steel wool with every string change.

I use 10-52's on every instrument, save my Warmoth/Charvel clone in which I use 10-46's (the low end is mushy with 52's) and my Epiphone Broadway Elitist, in which I use 12's with a wound G string.
 
I went through a string phase a while back. Hope this helps...


It's not so much brand as it is material. In order of brightness:

1. Pure Nickel
2. Nickel-plated steel
3. Plain steel
4. Stainless Steel

Gauge and scale length also matter. Thicker strings tend to produce more fundamental and less harmonics, which results in a ballsier sound. Pick choice also affects tone to a degree.

Mike P had an important point about string change interval. It's about two weeks when you play about 2 hrs a day. Every 20-25hrs of use results in noticeably duller strings. At about 40hrs, intonation goes out in the higher registers.

Aside from regular string changes, remember that these amps are plenty bright, sometimes too bright, resulting in rolling off some presence. EQ with your ear where the mic would be, rather than from standing above or at an angle. It will drastically change the way we percieve highs![/list]
 
String changes every 2 weeks?? lol.. I am such a slob.. I go months before I bother! Well I guess we know where my lack of definition is coming from now eh? Spanky strings has really changed everything for me, I feel like i am starting at the beginning. Didn't like the attack I was hearing on the high E that's for sure.
 
I swear by DR Hi-Beams. 10-52 on everything except my Peavey Predator Strat copy, on which I use 10-46. I use these strings because they have some of that nice brightness without overdoing it, and they seem to stay sounding that way longer than other strings I've used. I used to stick with D'Addarios, but the DRs give me more of what I like. I definitely don't change every two weeks, but a) I don't play as much as Mike P probably does, and b) I'm cheap. On point b), I usually boil my strings and put them back on the guitar once before finally discarding them.
 
Wow string changes ever couple of weeks. I have a light touch on the frets, and my sweat must be non acidic. I find that every six months is fine for me, that is playing about 2-5 hrs a week (depending on how busy I am).

Usually I find the intonation goes out a bit, and stuff in the higher register just doesn't sound right, then I change them.

I just ordered a bunch of different string sets from strings and beyond. I am going to try some high end strings since they last me so long, and see if there is a difference. I have always been a fan of the dean markley blue steel stings.
 
I will say though that I find the GHS to be brighter than the slinky. I have my other strat recently restringed with slinky's and they def were not as spanky.
 
2 weeks usually equates to about 25-35 hours for a working professional. Back when I used to teach privately and gig reguarly, I had to change them at the same interval. Now it's about every three months... (I usually let them go dead when I'm just practicing, and only change them for important gigs).

On boiling, I find that it works best for bass strings. One can usually get another 2 uses out of them, making a set last for a little over a year!

Only caveat:

After boiling, BAKE them on a cookie sheet for 25min at 425. It dries out excess moisture and prevents rust from water hiding in the windings. I learned the baking part from a D'Addario rep on a forum.
 
I played many years on Blue Steel LTHB's but they are a pain to locate consistently.

About two years ago I switched to Ernie Balls. I basically use the 11-54 Beefy Slinky's on everything. Occasionally I will use the 12-56 Not Even Slinky's on my PRS or the 10-52 Skinny Top Heavy Bottoms on others like my EBMM John Petrucci. I probably change them every 2-6 months based on how much use a guitar is getting.

On my acoustic, I always go with Elixir's and get about a year out of them.

Non-acidic hands here, so I find they last quite a while. I also don't really care for super-fresh strings. About a week old is when I start to love them.
 
its usually 2 weeks per set is when I find them getting stiff from abuse and ready to change. Dean Markley's Nickle/Steel 46-9s. I loved the Blue Steels but started finding them too bright with my modded modules and higher quality pickups.
 
I've tried many, I found the most pleasing sound and feel with Elixirs (010 - 052, drop-d tuning).
But I'm keen on trying some DR strings soon.

GHS, D'addario, Ernie Ball ... just didn't do it for me somehow.

I like the cut from the stainless steel, but wesarvin you're right, these amps have more than enough highs.
With coated strings, I notice the G-string going out of whack (intonation and stability) after about a month.
This depends on a lot of things though, the guitar, your playing style, whammy use, environment in which you play (changing temps, moisture) and the acidity of your fingers.

It comes down to: figure out when a certain set starts losing it's "pop" or starts going out of whack for you, and use that as a guideline. :)
 
Mattfig said:
I hear ya m0jo on the Elixers...But so expensive...

They feel better than any string I've played not to mention hold up better...

Know anywhere that has good e-deals?

I have been using Elixirs for many years now. My hands eat strings and I get months of consistent tone with them. Regular strings are two weeks at most and then out.

It's actually much cheaper for me to use Elixirs. FWIW, Best Buy sells them for $10 a set.
 
GuitarGuyLP said:
Wow string changes ever couple of weeks. I have a light touch on the frets, and my sweat must be non acidic. I find that every six months is fine for me, that is playing about 2-5 hrs a week

5 hours times 26 weeks is 130 hours. When I'm super busy, I'll often do that in two weeks.

:D
 
Kapo_Polenton said:
String changes every 2 weeks?? lol.. I am such a slob.. I go months before I bother! Well I guess we know where my lack of definition is coming from now eh? Spanky strings has really changed everything for me, I feel like i am starting at the beginning. Didn't like the attack I was hearing on the high E that's for sure.

This totally makes sense. Months ago, I detailed importance of pickups, bridge, nut, tuner, strings, cable, speaker and microphone when you began talking about your issue. I knew there was something odd going on in the chain.

:D

When I'm tracking guitars (which has been pretty solidly for the past few months), I don't go 2 weeks without changing strings, if not less. And in addition to that, I take the following steps every time I change strings:

1. Remove strings
2. Polish each fret with .0000 gauge steel wool.
3. Spray WD on the entire fingerboard (more on that later).
4. Wipe clean, paying special attention to the front and back of each fret.
5. Pour about a teaspoon of vegetable oil on a napkin and cover the fingerboard completely.
6. Wait about 20-30 minutes and wipe up excess oil with a napkin.
7. Wait about 10 more minutes for any excess oil and wipe.
8. Restring
9. Tune, stretch, tune, stretch, tune, stretch, tune.
10. Intonate, stretch and tune.

If I'm dealing with a new guitar and a rosewood fingerboard (of my 14 guitars and basses, only two have maple), it may take as long as an hour and multiple applications of WD40 to remove all of the dirt, grime and fret dust from a neck. I spend quite a bit of time removing all of the dirt from each side of each fret and I don't stop until my napkin is complete dirt free. It can often take a while.

After that, I continuously oil the fingerboard. New fingerboards are often very dry and I may have to apply a teaspoon every hour for 8-10 hours, as it's all sucked up into the wood. Often times, I'll put on a heavy application and wait 24 hours.

Now why this may seem odd to some of you guys, I've been doing this to my instruments for more almost 30 years. It not only preserves the wood but makes the fingerboard extremely fast, as I have a very, very light touch and I like extremely low action.

:D
 
Hey Mike after reading your post I can appreciate your meticulousness...

But vegetable oil? I wont even cook with vegetable oil, let alone put it on my prize possessions that I value more than my girlfriend...LOL

I'm calling OCD on MikeP! Have a good night dude.
 
My routine is similar to Mike P's cleaning and tuning process but I'm slightly less meticulous....

On my gigging guitar I change my strings (D'Addario) after 2 gigs, and sometimes 3 at the most. I also clean the strings with Fast Fret between gigs and apply a slight coat after restinging too. I also apply a little fast fret to the - I figure it slows the oxidation a little, while also making the strings less tacky.

When changing the strings, I also wipe/clean/moisturize the fretboard and frets with a face-cloth that has a small amount of lemon oil. I also polish the guitar and hardware with Gibson guitar polish or carnuba wax (McGuire's paste).

This routine keeps the guitar looking new and it plays nice. Changing the strings so frequently also gives me consistent tone and reduces the chance of breaking a string during a gig. For the $2 or so it cost me per gig ($4/pack of strings /2 gigs) it is well worth it.

On my non-gigging guitars, I change the strings when they begin to sound dull (they usually last several weeks, as I roatate these guitars so I play each one infrequently)
 
I second Mike's approach, although it may be a bit overkill for an average Joe. I also use Lemon Oil instead of Vegetable oil, and usually skipp the WD and steel wool. My touch is pretty light and my hands are clean before I play, so that greatly lessens gunk and fret wear.
 
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