Ok guys, who wants to tear into their MTS amps and do some mods?
First things first - do NOT do this if you don't have the knowledge to safely navigate the guts of an amp. You should at minimum be able to discharge your amp safely and be able to check to see if there is any voltage still present on the amp.
If you can't do the above, stop reading. Seriously. I don't want you to get hurt messing around in your amp. If you can't solder cleanly and neatly - same thing. I don't mean to be a jerk about this, but if you lack basic soldering skills, practice on something else before you goof up your amp. I and by extension, this message board, take ZERO responsibility if you goof up your amp or yourself by following info contained in this thread.
I'm not going to detail anything here that is amazingly hard, but if you lack basic skills ANY of this is going to be hard. We all have to learn somewhere, but your nice Randall amp is not a good place to begin. I'd recommend buying a really cheap piece of electronics at a thrift store and take it apart and practice soldering on it before you work on something cool like your Randall amp.
Ok, if you're still here... this is for an RM100.
Take your amp chassis out of the enclosure. flip it over. Look at the small circuit board behind the input jack. You'll see a circle with solder points all around it - this is the first tube your signal goes into. Look next to it and you'll see a big capacitor in brown (.1 uf on my amp, should be the same on yours.) This is a coupling capacitor, it behaves like C3 on our modules - it affects how much low end goes into the amp. It 'couples' gain stages of the amp to each other.
Any changes you make here will change the low end of ALL of your modules, so think carefully. You can either replace it, or... put a switch in. You'll need to drill the face of your amp underneath the channel switch, so think twice and drill once... you can either put a three way toggle that will give you three positions like a cap switch on a module, or go nuts and get a 5 or 6 way switch that is a rotary. It's a little tight in there, I'd recommend just a plain old 3way dpdt (double pole double throw) switch.
Typically you don't hear a change unless it's double, so you could set it up for .2, .047 and .1 to get stock and one step tighter and one step bassier. Or go .1, .022 and .047 to get stock and two tighter. If you have switches on your modules, you can use this to get the entire amp 'close' and then fine tune each module, as it will be different gain stages affected.
Pete
First things first - do NOT do this if you don't have the knowledge to safely navigate the guts of an amp. You should at minimum be able to discharge your amp safely and be able to check to see if there is any voltage still present on the amp.
If you can't do the above, stop reading. Seriously. I don't want you to get hurt messing around in your amp. If you can't solder cleanly and neatly - same thing. I don't mean to be a jerk about this, but if you lack basic soldering skills, practice on something else before you goof up your amp. I and by extension, this message board, take ZERO responsibility if you goof up your amp or yourself by following info contained in this thread.
I'm not going to detail anything here that is amazingly hard, but if you lack basic skills ANY of this is going to be hard. We all have to learn somewhere, but your nice Randall amp is not a good place to begin. I'd recommend buying a really cheap piece of electronics at a thrift store and take it apart and practice soldering on it before you work on something cool like your Randall amp.
Ok, if you're still here... this is for an RM100.
Take your amp chassis out of the enclosure. flip it over. Look at the small circuit board behind the input jack. You'll see a circle with solder points all around it - this is the first tube your signal goes into. Look next to it and you'll see a big capacitor in brown (.1 uf on my amp, should be the same on yours.) This is a coupling capacitor, it behaves like C3 on our modules - it affects how much low end goes into the amp. It 'couples' gain stages of the amp to each other.
Any changes you make here will change the low end of ALL of your modules, so think carefully. You can either replace it, or... put a switch in. You'll need to drill the face of your amp underneath the channel switch, so think twice and drill once... you can either put a three way toggle that will give you three positions like a cap switch on a module, or go nuts and get a 5 or 6 way switch that is a rotary. It's a little tight in there, I'd recommend just a plain old 3way dpdt (double pole double throw) switch.
Typically you don't hear a change unless it's double, so you could set it up for .2, .047 and .1 to get stock and one step tighter and one step bassier. Or go .1, .022 and .047 to get stock and two tighter. If you have switches on your modules, you can use this to get the entire amp 'close' and then fine tune each module, as it will be different gain stages affected.
Pete
