Amp mods part one

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maximus1 said:
guess i'll just have to try, its really only stiff at low volumes, which isn't really an accurate portrayal of the amp anyway. i can't believe some people say they are not getting enough bass out of it though. :shock:

As long as you swap out one part at a time (so you can accurately gauge the change) I'd say try it. Just be sure any parts you replace are ok voltage-wise.

Pete
 
maximus1 said:
i can't believe some people say they are not getting enough bass out of it though. :shock:

they may be BASS players hiding as guitar players ...

there is tonne of bass on hand for the mts system imo...
 
Just found this cool thread. I?ve been thinking about upgrading the coupling caps in my amps lately, and any upgrades or mods I could do while I?m at it would be very welcome.
 
very interesting. Thank you Pete. These are the kinds of things that really help us who aren't in the know and don't wanna send out a 72 pound combo to get a 50 dollar mod haha! I'm thinking that this is different than the c3 since as far as I know, the c3 allows the amount of bass into the gain stage, less makes it cleaner (this is why a lot of people use an eq in front of the distortion pedal to cut the low freqs and then one in front to boost again) I personally like that sound, especially for rythm. I deduce that if this is after the mods, it would compensate without changing harmonic content (very cool) but if it's in front, it probably would change the sound. Personally, I love a tight c3 and turning the density and bass up, giving me a clean tight big sound. I can see why people would want more bass, especially if they like the sound of el34's. When I turn up really loud, the mids tend to stick up and flatten out so a huge bottom is needed to maintain that deepness.

-Angel
 
This afternoon I replaced the .1 with a .047 in my RM4 I left the 22UF bypass cap in place until I have had time to put the RM4 thru its paces.
 
Hey Pete,
It'd be really helpful if you could post what the mod is for the Kirk Hammett. I have a rm100 that I"m about to send back for a much pricier KH with mods that i'd have to sell so I'd rather do the mod if possible.

I was wondering if it's hard to do. I saw on the net that it's only 1 cap change? If that's true, then I'll just keep my rm100.

-Angel
 
Hey Pete,
It'd be really helpful if you could post what the mod is for the Kirk Hammett. I have a rm100 that I"m about to send back for a much pricier KH with mods that i'd have to sell so I'd rather do the mod if possible.

I was wondering if it's hard to do. I saw on the net that it's only 1 cap change? If that's true, then I'll just keep my rm100.

-Angel
 
I'm thinking about swapping out this couple cap on my amp, but just changing the brand to a Red Wima. Would this change the sound much like swapping to Orange Drops and Silver Micas would in a module?
 
I was wondering about the actual valve that is in the head and feeds the modules.

is this an 12AU7 and is it a Tung Sol or EH or what , would Swapping this valve out for something Better in terms of NOS benefit the amp ???
 
Actually, the stock tubes in the amp tend to be all JJ 12AX7 preamp tubes and 6L6GC power tubes. and yes, if you read up on these forums you'll see many people prefer a good sounding tone tube in the amp's V1, and then they put a JAN Phillips 5751 in the PI position to clean up the signal before hitting the power tubes.
 
the 'stock' kirk mod isn't all that exciting guys. really...you can get the same sounds out of a regular rm100. in fact, i believe we may have just switched over all new production rm100's to the same spec. the difference between all the new versions is cosmetic with exception to the el34's in the lynch box.
 
If anyone is interested, I'd like to comment on my experience and opinions. I had 3 rm100's (one 2x12 and two heads) and two seperate KH's at one time, as well as my step-dad having a rm50 (which I can hear the difference in but that's another story.). In my humble opinion, the KH is MUCH different than the rm100. The KH was overall much darker and smoother in tone and has more low bass that shakes the ground, like a H&K Warp T (now known as warp-x). I couldn't get the two to sound the same at all. All of the modules were much darker in the KH with a velvety feel and a thunderous low end. I ended up returning the KH models, only thinking of keeping one because maybe it would offset the lack of sub lows when adding a MM OT. I ended up not giving that a try though and ended up sticking with the RM100 because you can hear the harmonics better and It has better mids, even for a "metal guy". I'm really picky and am one of those guys that can tell the difference cables make etc., however, I don't think you'd have to be an audiophile tell the difference. For me, the difference was very pronounced and I can't imagine getting the same sounds with the two amps. That being said, most modules are made to sound best in the rm100 and, to me, most sounded best in a stock RM100 because that is what they are tuned in (Probably why I didn't like the MM OT). As a side note, the KH is a cool amp that gives the mods a deep dark flavor that many people might like. Some mods sounded cooler in the KH, especially the KH preamps. It brought something else out in them.

That's my opinion.

-Angel
 
MasterOf1Angel said:
If anyone is interested, I'd like to comment on my experience and opinions. I had 3 rm100's (one 2x12 and two heads) and two seperate KH's at one time, as well as my step-dad having a rm50 (which I can hear the difference in but that's another story.). In my humble opinion, the KH is MUCH different than the rm100. The KH was overall much darker and smoother in tone and has more low bass that shakes the ground, like a H&K Warp T (now known as warp-x). I couldn't get the two to sound the same at all. All of the modules were much darker in the KH with a velvety feel and a thunderous low end. I ended up returning the KH models, only thinking of keeping one because maybe it would offset the lack of sub lows when adding a MM OT. I ended up not giving that a try though and ended up sticking with the RM100 because you can hear the harmonics better and It has better mids, even for a "metal guy". I'm really picky and am one of those guys that can tell the difference cables make etc., however, I don't think you'd have to be an audiophile tell the difference. For me, the difference was very pronounced and I can't imagine getting the same sounds with the two amps. That being said, most modules are made to sound best in the rm100 and, to me, most sounded best in a stock RM100 because that is what they are tuned in (Probably why I didn't like the MM OT). As a side note, the KH is a cool amp that gives the mods a deep dark flavor that many people might like. Some mods sounded cooler in the KH, especially the KH preamps. It brought something else out in them.

That's my opinion.

-Angel

did you ever get to compare them to a lynch box?
 
I haven't played a lynch box yet. Just got a rm50 which to me is much sweeter and warmer in the highs and mids. haven't played a rm4 setup yet.
 
In case anyone was wondering about this mod for an RM50, this is the input board (I already removed the screws)

51f2dad3.jpg


03e6cbe4.jpg


That little brown cap in there on the input board is 104J (100,000pf = 0.1uF at 5% tolerance and it's 400V)

This is the guy you want to change for the 'master input' bass cap...I'm going to drill the chassis and add a switch at the front for mine.
 
Sounds very cool :)

They need to use less glue lol

Also lets get some more mods going on!

I want my RM100 to look like this thing!

DSCN3565-789553.JPG
 
I know this thread is kinda old, but I was wondering if anyone has actually did this mod? and, what ere you impressions of it?
 
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