I got think the wiring on my OT may be correct, but...

[chpsktplyr]

The colors can be switched and still be right. It depends. First, what color are the outsides to get the full 16 ohms. These could be reversed and still be correct. The 4 and 8 taps I'm not sure about. I just got a schematic and the 16 is green, the 8 is yellow, and the black is 4 ohms, that's not what my amp looks like. Mine is orange =16, grn+wh=8, and yell=4. It could be right but I don't want to just assume it is. I did check it w/a meter for R and got reading that increased as they should. Anyone know about the OT's in the RM50?

 

[chpsktplyr]

Oh, and in my amp blk is grnd. On the schematic blk is 4 ohms and there is no mention of orange.

 

[kc2eeb]

I assume we're talking about the RM50? If you only re-soldered the loose wire to the impedance switch, and and it looks like the other wires were the original factory soldering, then probably the only thing that happened was the previous owner put the switch back upside down. As far as the wire colors go, to confirm black is ground, set your VOM to low ohms, zero the meter, plug a speaker cord into the use first, speaker jack, then put one test tip on the shield and touch the black wire of the impedance switch. That should read zero or a small fraction of an ohm. Then go through the other colors. The highest reading will be the 16 ohm, lower than that 8 ohm, and lower still 4 ohm. To absolutely verify the colors you'll probably have to ask Rich or call/email Egnater. Hope this helps! Pat L.

 

[chpsktplyr]

I'm sorry, yes it is an RM50 and I did ohm it out and as is it read just what it would read if wired correctly. It's just confusing when your schematic has orange at 4 ohms, the schematic I got from us music has blk at 4 ohms, and my amp has yellow.
Colors don't seem to be the deciding factor here, it seems. Anyway, what counts for me is what the meter says; and it says things are wired correctly. At this point I am just curious as to why all the discrepancies on the schematics? And why can't Randall answer this simple question (OT color code)? BTW I have emailed them several times. No response, Duh, like I expected one.

 

[RD/Rich]

I will try and find the answer for ya when I get back to the farm in the morning.

As far as customer service goes...please be patient w/ them. Please feel free to shoot me a PM and I will go to bat for you and try to figure out what you need to know. I'm not a deep technical guy at all, but I will always try to get to the bottom of whatever you need to know. You can also shoot evilsam a PM if I'm asleep at the wheel and he'll put boot to a$$!!!

 

[kc2eeb]

OK. now I understand. Different model amps, even similar designs from the same company(not just Randall) can have different color codes, pin out arrangements, connectors, etc. I was working from a RT2/50 power amp schematic I got a number of years ago. The circuit is similar but because of things, like how the transformers mount, how long the leads are, the orientation on the chassis, would dictate different part numbers, color codes, etc. The fact that you got the schematic from Randall should confirm that the color coding is correct for your model amp. You already have the answer. As far as communicating with Randall/USMusic, personally, I've found calling them on the phone a better way to communicate with them. Hope this helps! Pat L.

 

[RD/Rich]

Alright I just swapped some messages w/ one of our techs here and this is what he said:

I can tell you that the OT wiring diagrams on most of our units are not a standard. [The company that makes the chassis] changes colors and such all the time and we have had units changed from over the years. Lots of the MTS stuff has about 3-5 different versions of each. A board change usually comes with a wiring change. [The customer] could have an amp from this year and have a schematic from 6 years ago.

I hope this helps or at least clarifies the problem. I would HIGHLY suggest sending you amp to us or at least to an authorized repair tech to resolve the problem.

Also, from reading your PM it sounds like Customer Service gave you all of the information they had available to them (even though they are not supposed to give consumers current schematics) and even Bruce Egnater himself stepped in stepped and tried to help. Beyond this I don't think there was anything else they could do.

 

[chpsktplyr]

Alright I just swapped some messages w/ one of our techs here and this is what he said:

I can tell you that the OT wiring diagrams on most of our units are not a standard. [The company that makes the chassis] changes colors and such all the time and we have had units changed from over the years. Lots of the MTS stuff has about 3-5 different versions of each. A board change usually comes with a wiring change. [The customer] could have an amp from this year and have a schematic from 6 years ago.

I hope this helps or at least clarifies the problem. I would HIGHLY suggest sending you amp to us or at least to an authorized repair tech to resolve the problem.

Also, from reading your PM it sounds like Customer Service gave you all of the information they had available to them (even though they are not supposed to give consumers current schematics) and even Bruce Egnater himself stepped in stepped and tried to help. Beyond this I don't think there was anything else they could do.

That does explain the discrepancies Rich-- Let me clear up a few things. I did not receive a current schematic, Bruce told me he could not help me, but gave me two Randall email addresses. Those were the ones I was referring to as non responsive.
As far as the issue at hand, the simple answer you gave is all I needed. "The colors may vary"...OK, thats all I need to know bro. So I will trust my meter readings (which have all been dead on). Problem solved. Thanks Rich

 

[Anonymous]

chpsktplyr

Email me at [email protected]. Bruce and I think we have figured out the color issues with the trannys for the RM50.