Is there a way

[unconventional]

First on position you have e.g. 0,001 uf - This is what I was using before but the cap I have now is of a different type. It's a black one that is larger than the tiny ceramic I think it was that I had before. Same sound I think

Second on position you have 0,0022 uf - This seems to add more bass and same amount of fizzle in the mids for lack of better words.

The mid position .0005 seems very tight yes. However it's so tight that it seems to rob a fair amount of gain out of the signal. Running the gain @ 1:00 or so for the other 2 modes as I usually do seems to have a loss of gain in this position, but turning the gain up solves the problem a bit, but also seems to remove some of the clarity out of the mix. I find this mode useless.

The 2nd position .0022 seems to be most representative of a modern mode of a recto. The blue LED is the ****.

 

[elpresidente99]

Sounds good but where is the problem now???

Greetz

 

[unconventional]

No problem other than having to use a bigger switch. It's just a tad ugly looking larger switch, but installed clean and whatnot. Not much room in there to put a switch without attaching it to the circuit board. No biggie. The nice blue LED takes away from the ugly switch. I'll take a pic of it later on. The caps I basically shrink wrapped in a larger shrink wrap tubing together and ziptied them to the tube cage underside in between the two tubes with being careful there is enough room to where they don't heat up the caps.

I just wish I knew where the hell to buy the proper switches as I'd like to do some experimenting with other modules. The shop I went to yesterday has teh right switches, but they have 80 variations of the on off on switch and the ones I bought were on / off / temporary on (as long as your holding the switch on the on position)

So it's my fault for buying the wrong ones. Unfortunately the place is a long distance from here, so I'd rather just order the proper switches from somewhere else. But nobody seems to know what the hell I'm talking about when I've called a few places.

 

[JKD]

Isn't it usually called a DPDT centre-off (on-off-on) mini-toggle switch?

You can use on-on-on if you like too....

 

[unconventional]

The problem JDK is that it only sticks in the middle (off) position, the other 2 positions are temporary as long as your holding it.


so (on - (have to hold) <> OFF (center) <> (on - (have to hold)

The one I got works, but it looks kind of absurd. It's a larger metal one with a plastic piece over the actual switch. Just looks out of place.

It's a tad larger than the smaller switches I bought that don't work, but if I got the right ones the hole is now bigger and would have to use a washer, which is no biggie. I'd probably just buy a new faceplate. I'm use to buying everything 2 ****ING times anyhow.

Why don't they just build these things the way that people want them. They build a treadplate module that sounds like ****.

Does anyone even test these things after they design them and build them? WTF? Give us options for christ sake.

Sorry, it's been a long hard day

 

[JKD]

I never said anything about 'momentary contact' ... which is what you have by accident I guess.....look at it this way, you're learning

I disagree on your Treadplate comment though....the original Recto had a 0.0047uF in I think...after Randall found out many were mod'ing that (in fact it was Randall RD that first published the mod)....later modules/models came with the lower value stock...so they do listen to their customers IMO.

There are even people playing these unmodded...

It sounds like Beer time at your place ... heh....

 

[unconventional]

Screw the beer, I'm going for the morphine drip, bed, phone off and 2 weeks of rest. I hate the IT field. Nothing but dealing with IDIOTS all day long. Anyhow, all I have to do is drive 2 hours and I can get the right switches. I'm going Saturday and I'm going to by 20 of them.

Any idea what the proper name is?

DIP switch with 6 contacts on/off/on


Question, could I use a dip switch with just on and off like 2 position with 4 prongs and just use two caps. What I'd like and I don't know how to do this is have .001 and .0022 and that's it. I don't need the .0005.

I'm not sure how to do this because if I solder .001 to the board, then try to use a .0022 it's going to make it .0032 right? Which is going to be in the neighborhood of mud. So....


What about this. Straight wires from board to center tabs in an on/off/on switch and a .001 on one side (on) and .0022 on the other side (on) and middle would essentially be no sound????

I don't know what I'm talking about. I wish to God I stayed in electronics school when I was in the military. The math killed me then I got a useless BS (BULLSHIT) in Medical Technology and somehow ended up an Oracle DBA (dirty bullshit artist) :lol:

 

[jlbaxe]

are the orange drops better? i put vintage orange drops in my guitar(ibanez roadster,bridge pick up only),wired like an old les paul and it sounds awesome.what about changing the caps? anyone experiment with vintage parts? what about noise?

 

[elpresidente99]

no your right, if you directly goes form pcb to the switch without a cap you can switch only two, but it isn a good idea. Ther are also switches with to ways. ON/OFF. THey have two contacts to for each cap. so you have 0,001 on PCB and on die ON Position an other 0,001 then you have 0,002. It isn exactly 0,0022 but near.

Hope that it work, i feel with you, i modded my SL+ so often that now it doesn't work after all, maybe i have broken any other part by soldering.

But this weekend i go through all new parts and check dem if there is something wrong.

So happy day.

I only can give you a picture of the right switch with a German instruction if you want, but you can see the switch.

 

[JKD]

What about this. Straight wires from board to center tabs in an on/off/on switch and a .001 on one side (on) and .0022 on the other side (on) and middle would essentially be no sound????

That would work but you'd probably get a pop when switching the c3 in/out of the circuit....

I think I already said (might have been another thread) if you go with the caps in parallel then leave one in the board (usually your tightest setting)...then just wire the other two 'adders' like you said.

It's a compromise because you won't have the exact values on hand.

500pF on the board then 500pF on 1, 1000pF on 2 gives you 0.001, 0.0005 and 0.0015 uF to choose from

1000pF on the board and 500pF on 1, 1000pF on 2 gives you 0.0015, 0.001 and 0.002 uF to choose from