I see this a lot... and I had one of my RM100s on the bench, thought I'd take a few pics of the guts and show you guys a few places to check if you're having issues. A few things before we start though:
I and Ned and ANYONE involved with this board take no responsibility if you go digging around in your amp and hurt yourself. If you don't think you should be troubleshooting your amp, then go take it to a tech. Don't try to save a few bucks and hurt yourself in the process. There can be lethal voltages in a guitar amp and I can't cover every possiblity or eventuality in this thread - YOU USE ANY INFORMATION IN THIS THREAD AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Unplug the amp from the power supply.
First off, is the amp totally dead? Then take a small flat blade screwdriver and remove the fuse cover next to the power cord. BE SURE YOU DO NOT CHANGE THE POSITION OF THE FUSE COVER - Your voltage should be top center. Don't change this! Mine was 120v, for example.
Pop the cover off, pull out the fuse, and check it with a multimeter. I use one that can be set to make a noise when there is continuity - place a probe on each end of the fuse and see if your meter reacts the same as if you were touching the probes together. If so, then the fuse is passing current and you're ok. Fuses can be obviously burnt and bad, but sometimes they look good but are bad. Testing with a meter is the best way.
Now take the amp chassis out of the enclosure. If you need help figuring this out, it may not be a good idea for you to go any further.
Discharge the capacitors at this point. If you don't know how to do this, look it up. Google is your buddy. If you don't want to take the time to do this, take the amp to a tech.
All the fuses other than the main fuse we looked at and the individual tube fuses are all in a cluster near the midi jacks. You will have to remove the midi board to get to two fuses underneath it. Take the two screws out, and there is enough wire to move the board over and away.
Note the dip switches on the midi board for setting channels...
Here's a pic with the midi board moved, of all 7 of the fuses. 4 and 5 were hidden under the midi board. Remove and test each one, if one is bad - replace it with the same value and type. NEVER put a fuse larger than specified in any device. Bruce Egnater has stated we can use 400ma fuses for the tube fuses, but I would leave all the other ones alone value-wise.
While you're in there, look at any spade connectors. If you've had a speaker cab open, usually they use connectors like this for the speakers. Be sure all of them you can see are tight and pushed on the terminals correctly. This pic is of the standby and power switches - mine came loose on a standby switch and the amp wouldn't come out of standby. It just had a loose connector.
More to come later, I'm beat.
Pete
I and Ned and ANYONE involved with this board take no responsibility if you go digging around in your amp and hurt yourself. If you don't think you should be troubleshooting your amp, then go take it to a tech. Don't try to save a few bucks and hurt yourself in the process. There can be lethal voltages in a guitar amp and I can't cover every possiblity or eventuality in this thread - YOU USE ANY INFORMATION IN THIS THREAD AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Unplug the amp from the power supply.
First off, is the amp totally dead? Then take a small flat blade screwdriver and remove the fuse cover next to the power cord. BE SURE YOU DO NOT CHANGE THE POSITION OF THE FUSE COVER - Your voltage should be top center. Don't change this! Mine was 120v, for example.
Pop the cover off, pull out the fuse, and check it with a multimeter. I use one that can be set to make a noise when there is continuity - place a probe on each end of the fuse and see if your meter reacts the same as if you were touching the probes together. If so, then the fuse is passing current and you're ok. Fuses can be obviously burnt and bad, but sometimes they look good but are bad. Testing with a meter is the best way.
Now take the amp chassis out of the enclosure. If you need help figuring this out, it may not be a good idea for you to go any further.
Discharge the capacitors at this point. If you don't know how to do this, look it up. Google is your buddy. If you don't want to take the time to do this, take the amp to a tech.
All the fuses other than the main fuse we looked at and the individual tube fuses are all in a cluster near the midi jacks. You will have to remove the midi board to get to two fuses underneath it. Take the two screws out, and there is enough wire to move the board over and away.
Note the dip switches on the midi board for setting channels...
Here's a pic with the midi board moved, of all 7 of the fuses. 4 and 5 were hidden under the midi board. Remove and test each one, if one is bad - replace it with the same value and type. NEVER put a fuse larger than specified in any device. Bruce Egnater has stated we can use 400ma fuses for the tube fuses, but I would leave all the other ones alone value-wise.
While you're in there, look at any spade connectors. If you've had a speaker cab open, usually they use connectors like this for the speakers. Be sure all of them you can see are tight and pushed on the terminals correctly. This pic is of the standby and power switches - mine came loose on a standby switch and the amp wouldn't come out of standby. It just had a loose connector.
More to come later, I'm beat.
Pete
