So I put a 5751 into V1 of my Mr Scary
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Jack Napalm
Well-known member
Hamner1 said:
Plug and play. You only need to bias your power amp tubes.
I too can vouch for the tubestore in Canada! No bad tubes, and even exchanged a pair because I didn't like them!
I put the 5751 in the PI, much cleaner! If you are looking for the full saturated distortion the modules provide, a high quality (Mullard, Tung Sol, or NOS) 12ax7 would be a better bet. The 12at7 was a common choice in the old days, not sure how the amp would react to the diff. voltage.
Anyone ever tried a 12AY7?
Good luck!
I put the 5751 in the PI, much cleaner! If you are looking for the full saturated distortion the modules provide, a high quality (Mullard, Tung Sol, or NOS) 12ax7 would be a better bet. The 12at7 was a common choice in the old days, not sure how the amp would react to the diff. voltage.
Anyone ever tried a 12AY7?
Good luck!
Mattfig
Well-known member
Well, I dropped a 5751 into V1 on my Twinface and it sounds even better...I don't use this module for any kinda gain so the reduction in saturation was welcomed...It also let me switch over to warmth instead of clarity which I also like...
Good call...Got 6 more on the way!
Good call...Got 6 more on the way!
eyeball987
Well-known member
dr_evil said:
I have bought two Tung Sol 12AX7's from trusted vendors and had the first one die in about two hours. The second one lasted about 3 months with very light use. They sounded great when they worked but I am done with them for now. I had them in the V1 spot of a modded Brahma. Maybe they were getting too much of a workout? I don't know but I need something more reliable.
Julia
Well-known member
eyeball987 said:
Welcome to modern day tube quality. I got to the point where I just bought a $100 worth of JJ 12AX7s from Eurotubes for $10 ea. Yes they're darker sounding but they're cheap. I won't pay a lot of money for a preamp tube. And they're not fizzy like the chinese tubes.
Dang!
Yes, tubes vary these days! I have had the Tung Sol reissues in my Quickrod since I bought it in April, amp gets a fair amount of use and hauling around. They even tested pretty good at the tube dealer a week ago.
I had my Mullard reissues tested at the same time, and it really helps! I could really tell between the one that tested "lower" (stiff and trebly)from the "higher" (thick and gainy) (now if only I knew what the rating meant!). If the dealer offers additional testing for a couple bucks, I would say it is worthwhile.
I have been meaning to try a Tubestore 7025, but have not bought one either. I found a NOS dealer near my work who gives me silly prices, and they are dynamite in the RM100. 12ax7 for the Mr. Scary, and a 12ay7 for the Tweed. Really gives them that "extra-something", like Julia said. In a distortion module, the better tube seems to eliminate some of the treble string "squeal". I have found that in a lot of amps in the store, even some expensive ones, so I am tempted to blame the cheap-o tubes. Anyone else got anything on this?
It seems I will be mixing a "stock" tube and an NOS in my modules, as the Tweed seemed to be best with the NOS and a JJ, and the Mr Scary with the Raytheon and Ruby. Quickrod does not seem to be sensitive to them. Since Splawn ships his amps with Chinese tubes now, I assume the amp is over-engineered to accommodate that!
I will be back to the tube dealer for some more of that NOS crack..
Seeya,
Dave
Yes, tubes vary these days! I have had the Tung Sol reissues in my Quickrod since I bought it in April, amp gets a fair amount of use and hauling around. They even tested pretty good at the tube dealer a week ago.
I had my Mullard reissues tested at the same time, and it really helps! I could really tell between the one that tested "lower" (stiff and trebly)from the "higher" (thick and gainy) (now if only I knew what the rating meant!). If the dealer offers additional testing for a couple bucks, I would say it is worthwhile.
I have been meaning to try a Tubestore 7025, but have not bought one either. I found a NOS dealer near my work who gives me silly prices, and they are dynamite in the RM100. 12ax7 for the Mr. Scary, and a 12ay7 for the Tweed. Really gives them that "extra-something", like Julia said. In a distortion module, the better tube seems to eliminate some of the treble string "squeal". I have found that in a lot of amps in the store, even some expensive ones, so I am tempted to blame the cheap-o tubes. Anyone else got anything on this?
It seems I will be mixing a "stock" tube and an NOS in my modules, as the Tweed seemed to be best with the NOS and a JJ, and the Mr Scary with the Raytheon and Ruby. Quickrod does not seem to be sensitive to them. Since Splawn ships his amps with Chinese tubes now, I assume the amp is over-engineered to accommodate that!
I will be back to the tube dealer for some more of that NOS crack..
Seeya,
Dave
Why buy a valve amp and use Cheap nasty tubes ??
doesn't make sense to me.
Alot of guys on here and other forums , are primarily in search of good tone , ultimate tone etc.
Then will not spend money on something that is crucial to the desired outcome , TUBES !!
Some audio guys spend $$$$ on preamp and power tubes , and some guys here won't spend $25 on a preamp tube.
Like anything , you get what you pay for !
doesn't make sense to me.
Alot of guys on here and other forums , are primarily in search of good tone , ultimate tone etc.
Then will not spend money on something that is crucial to the desired outcome , TUBES !!
Some audio guys spend $$$$ on preamp and power tubes , and some guys here won't spend $25 on a preamp tube.
Like anything , you get what you pay for !
Local store didn't have the 5751, so I went with a GT 12AU7 which replaced the JJ ECC83S in V1 of the Scary module. Differences were less gain. I was running the gain at about 11 oclock & after the swap I am now running it around 2 oclock. I get a sense of increased clarity. The module "cleans up" nice without as much reduction on the volume control of the guitar. A suprising thing was that I like the module with the bright switch on now. For some reason with the Bright off now, there is less presence. The module sounds kind of dead without the Bright switch on.
I think I will be getting another one to try in the clean module. That module the gain is set at 10 oclock or it starts to break up with the EMGs.
I think I will be getting another one to try in the clean module. That module the gain is set at 10 oclock or it starts to break up with the EMGs.
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