Strings.. and brightness!

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I remember reading somewhere that lemon oil or any of those neck/fret cleaners are not one fits all. Are there some fretboard types that will react to lemon oil or any of those other over the shelf cleaners? I have ebony, rosewood, and maple boards to think about.
 
I have a seperate oil for my maple fretboards and then my Dunlop fingerboard conditioner for my ebony and rosewood boards.
 
I am very anal about how I maintain my guitars. I am somewhat similar to Mike P's procedure, but I use some different products that I have found make the process easier, and with better results.

Oil for the fretboard - http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm
Fret doctor, absorbs much better than anything I have used in the past, and it will not go rancid, and start smelling like vegetable oil can.

Fret polishing - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sanding_Tools_and_Supplies/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=1790
Micromesh pads. These are super fine abrasive, finer than any steel whool, and the best part is that they don't leave anything behind. I have always found with steel wool there are a lot of bits of the wool everywhere, this is cleaner, and you can use a much finer grit to get a mirror polish.

I can't find them anymore, but stewmac used to sell some thin steel sheets with fret slots to protect the fretboard while cleaning your frets. I use them to keep the fretboard clean, and speed up the cleaning process.

My procedure is
1 - Remove strings
2 - put on fret doctor in a good thick layer
3 - Clean the body of the guitar, and pickup covers
4 - Polish the frets
5 - wipe up the exess oil, working the dirt off the fretboard
6 - Inspect the frets, and fretboard for any more dirt, or issues
7 - restring
 
GuitarGuyLP said:
Fret polishing - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sanding_Tools_and_Supplies/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=1790
Micromesh pads. These are super fine abrasive, finer than any steel whool, and the best part is that they don't leave anything behind. I have always found with steel wool there are a lot of bits of the wool everywhere, this is cleaner, and you can use a much finer grit to get a mirror polish.

I've never had an issue with excess steel wool but this looks like an awesome way to clean frets. Thanks for posting!
 
The finer ones are so fine I have used them to polish pickup covers to a mirror shine!!! They are really handy, and since they have a nice bit of foam in them they just conform to the fret really nice.
 
I use Dean Markley, DR, GHS, or Dunlop strings nowadays. Either 10-52, 11-52 or anywhere in that area. Ernie Balls die in a matter of days for me.
 
Usually change strings before any recording or gig that will go for 3-4 hours of playing.
Will definitely change the 1st (E) and 2nd (B) at least if not the whole set.
Always use Gibson Vintage reissue pure nickle wrap .009 to .042 set.
If not for a gig, will leave them on until they start "work hardening" and need
more bend to reach pitch, 15-25 hours of playing.
 
A great video for this thread...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtEGlzk4a60&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Gotta have some good speakers or headphones to tell a HUGE difference. But I'm convinced!
 
eyeball987 said:
Mattfig said:
I hear ya m0jo on the Elixers...But so expensive...

They feel better than any string I've played not to mention hold up better...

Know anywhere that has good e-deals?

I have been using Elixirs for many years now. My hands eat strings and I get months of consistent tone with them. Regular strings are two weeks at most and then out.

It's actually much cheaper for me to use Elixirs. FWIW, Best Buy sells them for $10 a set.
I've used Elixirs too. They keep their tone and feel nice and smooth. I've used those since about 2008. I really love them on my acoustics. The bronze in regular strings always seems to tarnish so quickly. I am curious about some of the other coated strings like Cleartone and the new neon colored DRs.
I like that Best Buy is selling them for $10!! WOW!!
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchpage.jsp?_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&_dynSessConf=11194423542619427&id=pcat17071&type=page&st=Elixir+strings&sc=Global&cp=1&nrp=15&sp=&qp=&list=n&iht=y&usc=All+Categories&ks=960
I want to try the new Cobalt strings by Ernie Ball. They aren't coated, but they are made from an cobalt bearing alloy that is more magnetic than regular steel. They are purported to have significantly increased output over traditional alloys. They are supposed to be a touch brighter too.
Check out the demo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxyW5osj2IE It's not just the same old hype. This were new at 2012 Winter NAMM. I want me some!!
8) 8)
This is what John Petrucci has to say: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlFoSwzoD-A&feature=related
Or for the more traditional player...Slash: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEsfSaHlIVo&feature=related
 
What isotope of cobalt? If it's Co-60 it could really bring something "special" to the stage.

I just use D'Addario 9-41 pure nickel on my G&L Legacy, change them when they need changing, and we're good.
 
Julia said:
What isotope of cobalt? If it's Co-60 it could really bring something "special" to the stage.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Birings a whole new meaning to the phrase, "Killer guitar".
charvel-blood-spatter-guitar.jpg
 
My strings are quite dark, especially the lower ones. At times it seems I can't get that pick attack I hear in my head. I use EB Skinny Top/Heavy bottoms, which I know I should change more often. That and my stock D. Designed pups definitely need to be upgraded. I do oil the fretboard and clean the crevices at the frets, though. I'm totally looking into polishing the frets, does it make a real tonal difference?
 
I don't have acidic skin so it gets tricky. I've got to go by sound and feel. Like lifting the plain strings and if I can feel the fret marks on the underside of the strings it's definitely time. If they sound dull on an acoustic it's time. Heavy strings will have a thicker sound than lighter gauge strings. I just find I like the lighter gauge strings. Maybe a GHS 10-48 Gilmour set for the Alexi with a 52 on the E6 for drop C tuning -- I find the Duncan Blackout just a little too bright in standard tuning, and I think the instrument is designed for D tuning since Alexi Laiho plays in that almost exclusively anyway.

My Gibson scale instruments 9 - 46 D'Addario w/ 14 on the G, just because it makes bending easier.
 
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