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I've listed it on ebay, but thought I'd put out the word here. I'm always open to offers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/390708870065?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Amp sounded great last night. Had no issues. It was also the first night I played using my master volume boost w/attenuator pot that I slapped together a few days ago. I was really just about ready to chunk my Randall until this. It really gives it some balls. Just a tighter low end and fatter...

The term "hot swappable" comes directly from Randall. Something I avoid doing though, because it just doesn't seem very safe with hot tubes

I actually didn't "hot swap" them...BUT, didn't screw it down good now that I think about it. I noticed I hadn't even pushed it all the way in, so I pushed it in and screwed it down tight with the power on. Maybe that was it. I know you're supposed to be able to "hot swap" them, but I just...

I blew the V1 tube in my KH3. Was doing some experimenting with tone, switched out the stock Ruby for a JJ. It seemed fine, but the next time I turned on my amp, that module was dead. This was during soundcheck before a show saturday. Luckily, I was able able pull off the night just using my JF...

I still haven't tried 6550s, but I did try EL34s. I think I actually like them better than 6L6s. They just seem tighter, more focused and less boomy in the wrong places. I always thought I was a 6L6 guy. Maybe I was wrong!

Nope. Not the correct footswtich, but it will probably work to switch channels.. There aren't any other footswitching options (besides the "boost" option, but to actually use this you really need a switch with some kinda volume pot or attenuation control built in because if you just switch...

I did just pick up some EL34s on ebay for unbelievably cheap. Sometimes my OCD ebay scrolling pays off. I'll probably install them and take a look at the resistor soon (hopefully). I think I'm probably more of a 6L6 guy, but I'm curious to try an EL34 tone, and with the MTS, it's just so freakin...

I sure haven't. My entire rig is in a rented space about 45 minutes from home. Practiced yesterday and didn't think to open it up. Was gonna bring my multimeter with me to at least check to make sure it was still biased correctly, and totally forgot to.

V3 (in the amp, close to the input jack) is shared by the modules. I guess it depends on your taste. It would certainly make a good lead channel for most people in the hard rock or metal realms. I really bought it for big, chunky, Eeevil rhythm riffing...and I'm kindofa one trick pony anyway...

I really haven't much time to experiment with the Trilogy. Got one practice and one show in since I got it a couple of weeks ago. My rehearsal space is 45 minutes away from home, so it's just sitting there taunting me until sunday. Gotta show on wednesday also so hopefully I can get more...

I might have to give them a try. The modules that I'm using (KH3 & JF Trilogy) both seem to have much better tone with their levels around 11 o'clock or lower and the master adjusted for stage volume. Maybe 6550s will give similar tone, but may have a little more volume and thump on tap, if needed

I'll give it a check and see what I've got in there. Sounds like an easy fix if the resistor is the issue. I picked it up dirt cheap on craigslist. It looked mint, but since I gig fairly often, I swapped out the 6L6s immediately for some new Ruby 6L6GCMSTRs I had sitting on a shelf. I've...

Yup (originally a combo that I converted to a head)

I think the KH3 is a great stock module. To me, it covers Mesa Mark IV to Rectifier tones depending on settings. It's a very aggressive module that works for rhythm and leads and doesn't have a buried mid-range. It isn't at all noisy or thin sounding. I paid 2x more for a JF Trilogy and the...

I'm slightly curious about swapping 6L6s out for 6550s in my RM50. I can't seem to find much information out there about the tone for these tubes, just a few people stating they give "more headroom". Obviously, tone is very subjective, but I'd just like to hear what players who've ran them...

Swapped in some new tubes and went to bias the amp. Got it set, but it was extremely tricky. The adjustment is very sensitive. It took quite a few tries because every time I touched it with a screwdriver, the reading jumped very high or low. Anyone else experience this? Also, it seems so loose...

This is what I discovered when pulling the board out of my RM50C. I believe that all the caps and resistors are correct. The presence pot seems to be the only thing wrong. I checked the values on the components per JF's specs: Presence Pot: B10K Density Pot: A1M Density Cap: 472 (250V)...

$40, I day turn around. I posted a link above that shows what the incorrect board and correct board pots should look like. Seems really easy to get the board out too.

I did a bit more in depth searching on the site and I found the resources you were talking about: http://mtsforum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?t=15167&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=density&start=0 I'm going to pull my amp out and check the pot values. I'm not great with a soldering iron...