DIY: Warmth and Clarity
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Many people do things to change some stuff, here is the post that talks about changes http://mtsforum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?t=3.
But, Pete puts some funk in the modules. My Cousin and I between us have the whole Marshall set, JTM45, Plexi, SL+ and man its awesome what he has done.
But, Pete puts some funk in the modules. My Cousin and I between us have the whole Marshall set, JTM45, Plexi, SL+ and man its awesome what he has done.
axecellent
Well-known member
What are these? More top secret than the Colonel's 11 herbs and spices. But seriously, he puts a lot of time and effort into his designs, so it would be pretty uncool/rude/douchebaggy to post specifics about what he changes.
Can they be done at home? Yes
What does Pete change? I'd imagine just about anything you ask him to.
What else does he do? He has a link in his sig that goes to his mod's list w/ prices and etc.
I have a couple modules modded by him and I can tell you they are both several notches better than stock. He does indeed put some serious funk in there.
Can they be done at home? Yes
What does Pete change? I'd imagine just about anything you ask him to.
What else does he do? He has a link in his sig that goes to his mod's list w/ prices and etc.
I have a couple modules modded by him and I can tell you they are both several notches better than stock. He does indeed put some serious funk in there.
It's a valid question. I do change part types, but I also change values too... and you need to understand, just because a part reads say 100k doesn't mean that's what it's value is. Most parts have a tolerance of plus or minus 5-20%. It could be, if a 20% part, anywhere from 80k to 120k and still be perfectly within specifications. Even something as good as a 5% part - 95k to 105k.
Where you start seeing issues is a cumulative effect - in some of the higher gain modules, you're looking at 3-4 stages with coupling caps in between *and* plate resistors and cathode resistors with cathode caps. This isn't taking into account part type (are they Orange Drops? Metal film resistors? Sozos?) at all... just value. There are some modders who do terrific modifications and as far as I know, don't change out much in the signal path as far as part type, they swap out values or add a part here and there.
I do both... and I don't just use OD's anymore. In some mods now, I use OD's in certain spots, or not at all... I'll always offer them because they do have a certain sound, I just like being as open to new ideas and tones as I can be, and no one singular sound is the 'best one'.
The other thing I do is I use my ears. Just because I usually use a value of part in my mods, if it doesn't sound 'right' then I'll change it. I know what values will have what effect on the modules, so I can work around it and 'guide' the module where I want it. A lot of mods I've done have been customs where a guy asks "I want it like this, but more of 'that'" and then I do it. I also test any mods I do for people extensively, which can drive them nuts waiting... I hate that, but I don't just slam mods out left and right. I have a couple right now for Ratkent, and I tested them at my gig this weekend. I want to tweak one just a hair and then they will be sent out. I don't mod 50 different amps, I just mod what *I* use, and I use the Randall stuff. I own an RM100, RM50, RM20 combo, RM4 and matching RT2/50 power amp. I gig with them at LEAST every other week in two different bands, and sometimes up to 8 times a month, plus practice.
In the world of amp modifications, the parts themselves aren't that expensive, unless you start getting into the really crazy parts like oil in paper caps and such. Go to Angela.com and look at some of the prices of capacitors and resistors. $5 resistors! $100 capacitors! Typically the parts aren't that much for a modification, what you're really paying for is knowledge and the skill to mod your module without screwing it up. These modules are pretty tough, but someone who is a ham-fist with a soldering iron can screw one up pretty good. There are some good modifications for JCM800s and Top Boost modules here on the board.
I've been building pedals/modding gear since... *gulp* the 80s, when I found a copy of Craig Anderton's book and bought all the parts to build a tube sound fuzz from the local radioshack. thing still works and it's at my dad's house. I've built some custom amps from the ground up, but I prefer amp mods and the MTS stuff mainly because the entire idea behind the amps is of a 'modification' to begin with.
I guess my personal bottom line is that I don't like to give out my mods because just looking at someting I modded and copying the parts isn't going to get you the 'goods' in my opinion, and I really don't want something inferior being thrown around with MY name on it. People trust me with their money and modules and more importantly to me - with their tone. I do everything I can to make sure they get the best I can do at that time - and I just don't see how someone trying to reduce what I do to a recipe out of a book can sound as good. I've heard a few pedals that people modded to be 'just like a Keeley' and they sounded like crap, nothing like a Keeley. I'd hate for someone to hear a module "modded just like Pete does" and it sound inferior and I be judged on that tone.
Pete
Where you start seeing issues is a cumulative effect - in some of the higher gain modules, you're looking at 3-4 stages with coupling caps in between *and* plate resistors and cathode resistors with cathode caps. This isn't taking into account part type (are they Orange Drops? Metal film resistors? Sozos?) at all... just value. There are some modders who do terrific modifications and as far as I know, don't change out much in the signal path as far as part type, they swap out values or add a part here and there.
I do both... and I don't just use OD's anymore. In some mods now, I use OD's in certain spots, or not at all... I'll always offer them because they do have a certain sound, I just like being as open to new ideas and tones as I can be, and no one singular sound is the 'best one'.
The other thing I do is I use my ears. Just because I usually use a value of part in my mods, if it doesn't sound 'right' then I'll change it. I know what values will have what effect on the modules, so I can work around it and 'guide' the module where I want it. A lot of mods I've done have been customs where a guy asks "I want it like this, but more of 'that'" and then I do it. I also test any mods I do for people extensively, which can drive them nuts waiting... I hate that, but I don't just slam mods out left and right. I have a couple right now for Ratkent, and I tested them at my gig this weekend. I want to tweak one just a hair and then they will be sent out. I don't mod 50 different amps, I just mod what *I* use, and I use the Randall stuff. I own an RM100, RM50, RM20 combo, RM4 and matching RT2/50 power amp. I gig with them at LEAST every other week in two different bands, and sometimes up to 8 times a month, plus practice.
In the world of amp modifications, the parts themselves aren't that expensive, unless you start getting into the really crazy parts like oil in paper caps and such. Go to Angela.com and look at some of the prices of capacitors and resistors. $5 resistors! $100 capacitors! Typically the parts aren't that much for a modification, what you're really paying for is knowledge and the skill to mod your module without screwing it up. These modules are pretty tough, but someone who is a ham-fist with a soldering iron can screw one up pretty good. There are some good modifications for JCM800s and Top Boost modules here on the board.
I've been building pedals/modding gear since... *gulp* the 80s, when I found a copy of Craig Anderton's book and bought all the parts to build a tube sound fuzz from the local radioshack. thing still works and it's at my dad's house. I've built some custom amps from the ground up, but I prefer amp mods and the MTS stuff mainly because the entire idea behind the amps is of a 'modification' to begin with.
I guess my personal bottom line is that I don't like to give out my mods because just looking at someting I modded and copying the parts isn't going to get you the 'goods' in my opinion, and I really don't want something inferior being thrown around with MY name on it. People trust me with their money and modules and more importantly to me - with their tone. I do everything I can to make sure they get the best I can do at that time - and I just don't see how someone trying to reduce what I do to a recipe out of a book can sound as good. I've heard a few pedals that people modded to be 'just like a Keeley' and they sounded like crap, nothing like a Keeley. I'd hate for someone to hear a module "modded just like Pete does" and it sound inferior and I be judged on that tone.
Pete
Soulinsane
Well-known member
If your any good with a solder iron and have a little bit of time, cash, and a working knowledge of electronics its not difficult to discover your own warmth and clarity mods. Like what Pete said for example, different types of capacitors will yield a different type of sound even if they are of the same value just like different tube brands sound different. Modifying you own modules is as easy as pie with the MTS. I can give you some common tips from what I've done but what if you get a bad part ( and I have before ) or do something wrong and it sounds horrible? You might just blame me, or in Pete's case, him for giving you the instructions in the first place. Besides, what sounds great to him might not be what you had in mind.
Tone is a subjective quality but I can tell you that the parts inside a Randall module have room for improvement. Not that the parts in Randall amps are bad but you can most certainly improve some things with better parts.
For example, I'm in the process of upgrading most of the resistors in the signal path it with higher watt 1% tolerance metal film resistors. Will there be a change in tone? Not with these resistors unless I change a few values but I'll sleep better knowing the new resistors will be stronger and perform better. Why am I doing it? I found a bad resistor on the grid of power tube 2 and I'm spooked about the others. I'm also going try a few different type resistor ( mills ) at key places in the path and see how that sounds. By default I like metal film resistors because I've have great results with them in the past and they don't cost a lot. Others swear by carbon comp resistor and some people love oxide resistors. They all sound different.
Tone is a subjective quality but I can tell you that the parts inside a Randall module have room for improvement. Not that the parts in Randall amps are bad but you can most certainly improve some things with better parts.
For example, I'm in the process of upgrading most of the resistors in the signal path it with higher watt 1% tolerance metal film resistors. Will there be a change in tone? Not with these resistors unless I change a few values but I'll sleep better knowing the new resistors will be stronger and perform better. Why am I doing it? I found a bad resistor on the grid of power tube 2 and I'm spooked about the others. I'm also going try a few different type resistor ( mills ) at key places in the path and see how that sounds. By default I like metal film resistors because I've have great results with them in the past and they don't cost a lot. Others swear by carbon comp resistor and some people love oxide resistors. They all sound different.
Very interesting. I can tell just by "Pete's" response that he is thorough and probably does a job right. That's cool that you only mod the amps that you believe in. A lot of people are in it for the money and have no principals. I'm glad you answered my question because the prices of the mods seem very high considering the part costs and labor involved if it is just to buy caps etc and solder them. I guess what we pay for here is your expertise.
One other thing to consider is that I take the module apart and add/remove parts from the solder side (underneath the module). This takes a LOT longer than soldering a part on top of another, or cutting a part off the top of the module and then putting the new one on. I've seen a few modules that were modded this way and they worked, but looked like crap.
If I charged just an hourly rate for doing module mods and included testing time, I'd be making more with a paper hat on my head asking folks if they wanted fries or not.
Pete
If I charged just an hourly rate for doing module mods and included testing time, I'd be making more with a paper hat on my head asking folks if they wanted fries or not.
Pete
