New RM100VIPER Head LOOK PLEXI GLASS IN (more PICS)

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AXCL said:
...and you have too many guitars!

Are you making a slant / randall slanted straight / straight cab?

If you are using Dado's, I'd keep them shallow to retain the strength in the outside frame, but I'm sure that would work well.

I don't dato, I use 1x2 solid birch strapping (not pine...too soft), cut down the center corner to corner, many people believe 90 degree corners shouldn't exist in a cab (sound reflection issues, enhancing/killing certain frequencies) so 2x2 birch cut at 45 as a backer would also work.

This strapping can be attached to the outer edge of the cab for the baffle to rest on, giving you a great spot to screw into. I think it also helps to stiffen the cab a little, however it does add weight.

Dimensions...

Guitar cabs are less impeded by size then bass cabs, the lower the frequency, the bigger the box. If you are basing it on a Randall XL then you are fine. 1 1/2 back from the front sounds good too.

It sounds like you are on the right track, the biggest tip I can give is to ensure there are no voids anywhere in your joints. PL Premium (construction adhesive) is my best friend. It will bond anything and can fill up to a 1/4 inch gap. Glue (with PL) and screw!! Vibrations on any joints will kill the cab and if you are putting V30's in it...its going to do its best to vibrate. :twisted:

If your new to PL, then tip - don't let it touch anything that your not sticking together. It doesn't bond instantly, but it will not come off!!! Especially from your skin. I wear latex gloves when I use it.

So i should put the strapping around the whole cab? 2x2 cut 45 degrees?
what is PL glue? i was gonna just use 3/4 in pine for the frame or strapping as you say but maybe i need soemthing stronger. How do you feel about Liquid Nails? Good Not good. I want it to be as Void free as possible, how should i go about this. if you have plans or anything at all to help that would be sweet.

D
 
Another thing I just thought of.

seal your speakers.

Many people forget to seal the speakers when they are making the cab air tight. You can get seals online, but I just put a thin layer of silicone around the speaker holes, rub it down with my finger until its 1-2mm thick. When you let it dry you now have a gasket. I also bolt my speakers in. You can get threaded pieces you hammer into the pre drilled hole that have an outside washer and "teeth" to bite the wood (all one piece). Just don't over tighten, because instead of stripping a wood screw, you will crush the baffle and bend your speaker. Let me know if you have a clue what I am talking about. If not, I'll try to find a pic.
 
ok i got it with the silicone gasket, any type i should be aware of one that works best maybe.

A T-nut or star nut is what your reffering to i think right. I was going to screw them to the outside of the baffle so that i can install them after the cab is done, I want the back of the cab to be air tight so it will be glued and screwed, so the speakers will need to go on the outside of the beffle, is that what you were implying as well?
Keep it comeing im learning alot here LOL. this is just what i needed.
 
TheHunter said:
So i should put the strapping around the whole cab? 2x2 cut 45 degrees?
what is PL glue? i was gonna just use 3/4 in pine for the frame or strapping as you say but maybe i need soemthing stronger. How do you feel about Liquid Nails? Good Not good. I want it to be as Void free as possible, how should i go about this. if you have plans or anything at all to help that would be sweet.

D

I think the strapping around the whole cab is a preference of mine, but its not necessary if you are going to dato.

PL Premium is like Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive (Polyurathane). Never used the Liquid Nails, but if you get the right one it should be just a good. There are many varieties of this, "no more nails" is another, but i've used it and its crap!!

Void Free...
Ensure you get "void free" birch ply. Its at my home depot.
Ensure your cuts are square (uneven cuts create gaps)
Ensure all adjoining surfaces have glued contact (a 1/4 bead of PL or equiv on all joints should do this quite well.

Plans...
I've always sketched them out as I made it and didn't keep anything.

Other tips...
Finger jointing the sides will greatly increase strength, its a lot more work, but even just 3-4 joints will make a huge difference as it greatly increases the surface are being glued. I didn't do this on my first cab, but it had the strapping all around. It was a 2x12, but I could still jump on it with no problem at all. I glued the back on as well though.
 
TheHunter said:
ok i got it with the silicone gasket, any type i should be aware of one that works best maybe.

A T-nut or star nut is what your reffering to i think right. I was going to screw them to the outside of the baffle so that i can install them after the cab is done, I want the back of the cab to be air tight so it will be glued and screwed, so the speakers will need to go on the outside of the beffle, is that what you were implying as well?
Keep it comeing im learning alot here LOL. this is just what i needed.

I'm having much more fun then doing my work :lol:

Yes T-nut...i'm a dumbass! Put it on the back of the baffle / speakers on the front so they pull together with the baffle in the middle. Drill and install prior to putting the baffle on...its much harder doing it after, I know from experience!!

no preference for the caulking, but I'd recommend clear incase some gets where you don't want it, just ensure it is thin. You don't want the speaker resting on it, it needs to compress to the wood. If your careful, you could even install the speakers while it is wet to ensure a perfect seal.
 
I just remembered that the first cabs I ever made were 15 years ago when I was in high school. I had an old traynor bass cab with 8x10". I then made 2 4x10's out of 3/4 construction grade ply. I don't even think I glued it, it was all screwed together, the cab vibrated more then the speakers, but I thought it sounded great...it didn't, but I looked cool at school concerts :twisted:...make that over 20 years ago.
 
This is great thanks so much. So PL is a brand I can get?
I planned on doing the strapping all the way around as well, Im only going to dato the Baffle and not the rest of the cab, Ill just use the Strapping for strength.

Im pretty sure its Void Free 3/4" birch Plywood at my Home depot. it looks really good no football shapes in it.


Im gonna copy all these things to WORD and print it out as reference.

PL glue
Void free wood. solid wood for strapping cut to 45 degrees.
dato baffle, possible finger joint corners etc.
1/4" bead of PL glue for good seal.
T-nuts inside, speaker out (pull baffel into speaker w/o splitting wood)
Silicone for a gasket.

anything else

Your up in Canada huh? My buddy just bought an RM100 from a dude in Alberta, Canada.
 
20 yrs wow, im 28 so you must be a bit older than me LOL.

Id rather talk on this forum than work any day, Im at work now but i cant call it work, im foruming LOL.


Building, playing, talking about amps, guitars, pedals, If i got payed for talking about it or playing it i would never work a day in my life. LOL
 
TheHunter said:
This is great thanks so much. So PL is a brand I can get?
I planned on doing the strapping all the way around as well, Im only going to dato the Baffle and not the rest of the cab, Ill just use the Strapping for strength.

Im pretty sure its Void Free 3/4" birch Plywood at my Home depot. it looks really good no football shapes in it.


Im gonna copy all these things to WORD and print it out as reference.

PL glue
Void free wood. solid wood for strapping cut to 45 degrees.
dato baffle, possible finger joint corners etc.
1/4" bead of PL glue for good seal.
T-nuts inside, speaker out (pull baffel into speaker w/o splitting wood)
Silicone for a gasket.

anything else

Your up in Canada huh? My buddy just bought an RM100 from a dude in Alberta, Canada.

Yes PL is the brand name...I don't think its Canadian so it should be at your homedepot.

1/4" bead will squirt out most of the glue, but you will know it filled the gaps.

T-nuts - you'll likely bend your speaker prior to splitting wood so just make it snug hand tight...don't use a power driver for that last few turns.

Yip Canada - I'm in Toronto
 
TheHunter said:
20 yrs wow, im 28 so you must be a bit older than me LOL.

Id rather talk on this forum than work any day, Im at work now but i cant call it work, im foruming LOL.


Building, playing, talking about amps, guitars, pedals, If i got payed for talking about it or playing it i would never work a day in my life. LOL

34 - I built them when I was 14-15. I find the older I get, the heavier I want to play :twisted:
 
Thanks so much my friend. your going to help me make the badest custom cab and head i could ever have dreamed of having.


Thanks

D
 
TheHunter said:
Thanks so much my friend. your going to help me make the badest custom cab and head i could ever have dreamed of having.


Thanks

D

No Worries!! You just can't get pissed if I steal your snake skin idea!:twisted:

I think I'm going to go blue though!

Don't worry I won't go as far as the plexi! I don't know anyone who can engrave it for me. :wink:
 
Anyone know anyone who can make one of these RM100 head cases in blue suede to match my boogie cab? would love the lights as well?
VR,
///MK
 
LEDS that I reccesed into the head so the PLEXI GLASS hovers over them creating this briliant display.

I love it, the head came out better than i ever imagined.

D
 
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