AXCL said:...and you have too many guitars!
Are you making a slant / randall slanted straight / straight cab?
If you are using Dado's, I'd keep them shallow to retain the strength in the outside frame, but I'm sure that would work well.
I don't dato, I use 1x2 solid birch strapping (not pine...too soft), cut down the center corner to corner, many people believe 90 degree corners shouldn't exist in a cab (sound reflection issues, enhancing/killing certain frequencies) so 2x2 birch cut at 45 as a backer would also work.
This strapping can be attached to the outer edge of the cab for the baffle to rest on, giving you a great spot to screw into. I think it also helps to stiffen the cab a little, however it does add weight.
Dimensions...
Guitar cabs are less impeded by size then bass cabs, the lower the frequency, the bigger the box. If you are basing it on a Randall XL then you are fine. 1 1/2 back from the front sounds good too.
It sounds like you are on the right track, the biggest tip I can give is to ensure there are no voids anywhere in your joints. PL Premium (construction adhesive) is my best friend. It will bond anything and can fill up to a 1/4 inch gap. Glue (with PL) and screw!! Vibrations on any joints will kill the cab and if you are putting V30's in it...its going to do its best to vibrate. :twisted:
If your new to PL, then tip - don't let it touch anything that your not sticking together. It doesn't bond instantly, but it will not come off!!! Especially from your skin. I wear latex gloves when I use it.
So i should put the strapping around the whole cab? 2x2 cut 45 degrees?
what is PL glue? i was gonna just use 3/4 in pine for the frame or strapping as you say but maybe i need soemthing stronger. How do you feel about Liquid Nails? Good Not good. I want it to be as Void free as possible, how should i go about this. if you have plans or anything at all to help that would be sweet.
D