not enough gain with a 1086
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bro
Well-known member
just ran the 1086 with an od pedal in front.
for me,that made the differance.
i can see what people are talking about.
Just not for me.
for me,that made the differance.
i can see what people are talking about.
Just not for me.
okstrat said:
Hey Pete, I just aquired a 1086 mod and i wondered how i might get that gain mod into my new module. Is it something you offer as free knowledge that i might be able to do on my own or do you offer this in your module mod menu?
Thanks Pete.
TheHunter said:
It's one of my mods that I do... includes a push/pull pot so you can go back to stock. I tweak them by ear, it's not just 'add a capacitor here in parallel and change this resistor value here' type mod.
Pete
Jaded Faith
Well-known member
I just got my 1086 and a Recto back from Pete about a week ago. The 1086 is now one of my favorite modules, the best I have for both lead and rhythm. I have to say I have never played a real Recto, Recto module or a modeled Recto that I have ever liked. Ever. But Pete's Recto has been in my amp nonstop for a week and I love it! There isn't enough great things that I can say about his work. Every single thing he has worked on for me has turned to gold. He has a Plexi and Recto in the classifieds right now and if I didn't already have them with his mods I would buy them now.
No, I am getting any checks in the mail from him. :wink: His work is just that good.
Have him tweak your 1086. You won't be dissappointed.
No, I am getting any checks in the mail from him. :wink: His work is just that good.
Have him tweak your 1086. You won't be dissappointed.
unconventional
Well-known member
How do you guys go about modding these things? I'm worried I'll be dissapointed with my treadplate and 1086 I just ordered
unconventional said:
The easiest mods to do are in the input circuit, namely:
R1 and C3
R1 controls how hot the front end signal is (I think r2 and r3 also contribute but have only messed with those on the Top Boost module). If you have *new* modules I think these are optimal anyway
C3 controls the amount of bass in the signal .... lower value = less bass. This is one that many people mod to tighten up the module.
If you are familiar and comfortable with a soldering Iron and Pin Through Hole circuit boards/assemblies, these two are trivial and even documented by Randall. If you are not, it is extremely easy to overheat components and also the traces lift on the modules very easily.
If you are familiar with tube pre-amp designs you can change all sorts of other things..I'm not and therefore I let someone with more experience (hi Pete
) tweak these...you can turn an OK sounding module into either a great sounding module or into a piece of crap if you get it wrong.unconventional
Well-known member
Here's the deal. I can solder fine. Been doing it for years. I hear this and that on here.
R1, C3 , etc....
But nobody every explains what to replace them with, what they recommend and where they are located on the board.
I'd love to pay Pete to do the work but can't afford it. I like to do stuff myself as well, but there's minimal instructions on this.
Is there a well documented article on the treadplate anywhere? That explains in detail what to replace and with what?
Kevin
R1, C3 , etc....
But nobody every explains what to replace them with, what they recommend and where they are located on the board.
I'd love to pay Pete to do the work but can't afford it. I like to do stuff myself as well, but there's minimal instructions on this.
Is there a well documented article on the treadplate anywhere? That explains in detail what to replace and with what?
Kevin
So here's a start (you could find all this using Search on here btw):
R1 stock value used to be around 330k but this caused clipping/fizz on clean modules, suggested replacement was 150k...so there 's your range on that but feel free to experiment. I think they're 1/4W resistors (from memory)
C3 is all over the place stock, lower = less bass. Start at 0.5pf (500uF) and up. Each type of capacitor has a slightly different sound...silver mica, ceramic, poly etc. You need at least 500V capacitor (from memory.) 'Orange Drop' is popular for this since they sound great, nice and smooth IMO.
Both of these combined will change the feel of the input stage too.
R1 stock value used to be around 330k but this caused clipping/fizz on clean modules, suggested replacement was 150k...so there 's your range on that but feel free to experiment. I think they're 1/4W resistors (from memory)
C3 is all over the place stock, lower = less bass. Start at 0.5pf (500uF) and up. Each type of capacitor has a slightly different sound...silver mica, ceramic, poly etc. You need at least 500V capacitor (from memory.) 'Orange Drop' is popular for this since they sound great, nice and smooth IMO.
Both of these combined will change the feel of the input stage too.
