Some cap and resistor info..

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Gee Donner

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Here are some recommendations from my experiences. Let's start with the Marshall and Fender based modules.

There are 100 ways to mod or "personalize" an MTS module. There are technically three different areas that will afftect the sound in different ways: Circuit design, component value and component type/brand.

Circuit design;
All vintage Fender and Marshall circuits are similar to each other in many different ways. Marshall has more gainstages and thats why it also has more distortion. If you compare the 1959 to the 2203 youll find that it is pretty much the same amp. Some values differ and there is half a tube more in the 2203. The same differences you'll see on PLEXI vs. SL+ modules. The SL+ has two gainstages plus cathode follower and plexi has one stage plus CF. So the outcome is simple similar sound but more gain in the SL+.

It seems to me that when for example Randall is massproducing their modules they have to compromize a little bit to fit into the market. This is one way to get away from the "one trick pony" syndrome. So people mod their amps to get that personal tone or to get closer to the attitude that his/her idols amp has. This is where the adventages MTS systems comes into the picture. An amp that can be modified by swiching modules, or easily "moddable" modules, that after all only costs 200 USD if you mess it up completely. Don't be afraid to play around with your stuff, maybe you'll find your dreamtone after a while. Just make sure you know how to solder properly and have patience!

Caps;
For Marshall circuits I do believe that the best capacitors for vintage but high gain sound, are the real Philips/Mullard mustard caps. They have not been in production for many years and are hard to find and becuse of that they tend to be VERY expensive. There is a guy that came up with a way to reproduce a capacitor with the same characterisics as the Philips/Mullard mustard cap. His caps are called Sozo. He has two different series of caps, one is called vintage premium + and is the expensiver kind of his two lines. This is the way to go for modders that wants that vintage lots of mids kind of sound. These caps will recreate the attitude af a very old Marshall 1959 PLEXI.

See: www.sozoamplification.com

You can also use Orange Drops in your Marshall circuit. These have very little internal resistance and have a tendencie to give you more Fender-like clarity and sensitivity. You'll find these easily by googling for "Orange drops" or "Sprague" whitch is the brand.

Next recommendation for marshall circuits if you want that IN-YOUR-FACE attidude from your amp are the Illinois IC MPW caps. These caps has almost no internal resistance, which creates a very close-up sound. This takes a little of the Marshallesque tone out of the circuit. Good for Hardrock.

For Fender sounds I always use Orange Drops. Why change someting that has been sought after for 50 years?

Resitors:
Since we talk about relatively low gain circuits here, we don't have to worry too much about the noise that a Allen Bradley carbon composition resistors can cause. In higher gain circuits I would recommend metal oxide resistor because they are much more quiet as far as background noise. These are the real thing and they add warmth and a littlie bit clarity. I recommend these for both Fender and Marshall circuits. You'll find these on www.tubeampdoctor.com or www.metroamp.com.

you can read more about this,
See: www.aikenamps.com

If you want to start trying this out, my recommendation is that you start with the same values as original on the MTS module. Just test different kinds. If you need help to mod your module let me know I'll try to help you!

There is 100 ways of modding an amp circuit so don't expect to hit the sweet spot right away! Make sure you know how to solder and HAVE PATIENCE! (If you want my help then make sure you have a digital camera) :wink:

///G
 
Hello:

First sorry for my English :D

I noticed that you know much about modding a module.

I have a sl+ and i think it is good but you easy can get mud ouf of the amp.

I want to mod it to a JCM 800 and i saw this on the grailtone site but i don't konw which resistor or something else.

to change to the new Marshall circuit you would have to change R31 to a 33K resistor and C14 to a 470pf (500V min)

BUt which resistor and the other. Can you give my an example with a link which resistor and the other i should take.

Thanks
 
First, to clean up the "mudd" as you call it you should use a 0.022 at position C3 (written on PCB)

Second, alot of the serial produced SL+ modules already have 33K at position R31. Normally this resistor is a Carbon film resistor. This is a very important resistor type and the type will make a difference. On some modules (old ones) youll find a 56K here. I don't like the 56K at all!

Third C14 needs to be a 470pf, just like they write it in the article.

So if you tell me where you live and I'll try to find the right components easiest possible.

///G
 
Thanks

I live in Austria Europe. At C3 i should usa a Orange drop???? Or an other??

Look at this site www.tube-town.http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/index.php/language/en/cat/c31_Kondensatoren.html

ON this site i can order to austria and it is in englisch or german.

How do i see if i have a 56k or a 33k on R31.
 
Hey Gee,

Great info you have provided.

So I modded my Rectified module to the grail spec, changed the R1-R3 to 150ohm R, And C3 I had already changed to an Orange Drop .001.

It still seems to boomy and bassy, How can i clean this up?

Also what do you recomend for the 1086?
 
Quick note on the Sozos - I built an 18 watt Marshall clone with them, which is a fairly simple circuit. The simpler the circuit, the less parts = more of a difference will be made on the parts used. You can hear them better, so to speak.

I recorded a guitar into my PC 'dry' then put it into my iPod. Played it through the 18 watt with the sozos and also a few other cap types. Put the clips on the gear page. Most people couldn't tell which were which, and many didn't prefer the Sozos. I got griped at for using an iPod for this, but since it was the exact same signal going through, the DIFFERENCES between the tones should have been the big deal, not the overall tone.

Sozos didn't make that much of a difference at all. As a matter of fact, until they had been run for about 50 hours, they sounded like crap. Very muddy and 'smeary'. After 50 hours they sounded ok, after 100 or so hours they were a little better, but they weren't the magic part that everyone raved about, at least in my experience. This is the 'regular' sozo, not the premium one. But everone raved about the regular ones too... just keep an open mind. They aren't crazy expensive, but the mojo they add to modules escapes me.

A friend of mine builds boutique amps, and I asked him about them... he came to the same conclusion. No, I'm not going to name names. :) If you dig Sozos, that's great... but to me they didn't do much at all. They are nice looking and seem to be built well though.

Pete
 
One other thing... on the bass cap (C3 on most modules) the 'correct' value is going to vary. I mean, you could say "always use a .0022 cap" but what if you're playing through a boomy cabinet? Or playing a thin sounding guitar? Or playing leads and NEED a warmer/thicker tone? Or super tight technical rhythms and need a razor sharp bottom end with super fast transients? This is why I started modding these modules and including a way to switch between different caps. Egnater modules do this too.

I believe the grail value is .0005 (500pf). Try that. If you need a tighter low end than that, seek help, because that is insanely tight. Be sure you use a cap rated at least 400v.

Pete
 
elpresidente99
Cool, you live in Austria. I'm a swede but I live in Ljubljana for the moment (work). I used to live in Regensburg. Altso, Servus!
Buy your orange drop from TAD www.tubeamdoctor.de. I think you should be able to fit it in the spot where you want it (I did). Otherwise use the 716 series from tubetown, they are smaller. Also if you decide to order from TAD you can also buy a tad mustard cap and try that one in sthe same shipment. Compare with your own ears! Also buy your 33K from TAD, I love their carbon composition resistors. To decide how to read the color codes on a resistor I would recommend you to google a little bit. It is easy to find even in German.
Grias Di, Servus!

The Hunter.
There is a lot of bottom in this module, one idea could be to change the capacitors in the tone stack. I don't have that module anymore so I can not tell exactly. But I know that one of the identities of this module is to be very bassy. The 1086 I think kicks some major *** out of the box, for metal stuff (I don't play much metal). Same thing here, change cap brands keep the original values to start with. If you want help to mod, just tell me what you want to achieve, then it is easier for me.

okstrat
Sozos regular caps doesn't even come close to what the vintage plus does big difference here! Try the premium series! But you are right they take alot of time to break in.

///G
 
Yeah, but Sozos regular caps were sold as 'be all end all' before his 'premium' caps came out. I may try them later on, but I have had good success with ODs and other caps. I will say that I prefer just about anything over the stock ones on our modules, but it's a small difference. But a lot of small differences add up!

Pete
 
Servus :lol:

I saw that i have 56k on R31.

Ok is this right

for C3 Orange Drop 0,0022 ?F @ 600 V - 716???
for R31 Carbon Composition 0,5 Watt - 33 kOhm
for C14 I don't know is ?f the same like pf

Thanks
 
elpresidente99 said:
Servus :lol:

I saw that i have 56k on R31.

Ok is this right

for C3 Orange Drop 0,0022 ?F @ 600 V - 716???
for R31 Carbon Composition 0,5 Watt - 33 kOhm
for C14 I don't know is ?f the same like pf

Thanks

pico is 1.000.000 times smaller than micro , so ? << p

Raf
 
okstrat said:
One other thing... on the bass cap (C3 on most modules) the 'correct' value is going to vary. I mean, you could say "always use a .0022 cap" but what if you're playing through a boomy cabinet? Or playing a thin sounding guitar? Or playing leads and NEED a warmer/thicker tone? Or super tight technical rhythms and need a razor sharp bottom end with super fast transients? This is why I started modding these modules and including a way to switch between different caps. Egnater modules do this too.

I believe the grail value is .0005 (500pf). Try that. If you need a tighter low end than that, seek help, because that is insanely tight. Be sure you use a cap rated at least 400v.

Pete


So i looked around at Mouser And Digikey and a few other places and i can not for the life of me find the .0005 (500pf) value, the lowest i find is the 1500pf. Can you direct me to a site where i might find this value.
 
Ok, it shouldn't be too hard to find.
These are silver micas, they have a smooth tone. I like these better than ceramic disks.

If you are in Europe:
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/product_info.php?cPath=35_81&products_id=540

If you are in the US:
http://store.metroamp.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_30_29_52&products_id=103

You should be able to find them all over the place, not only on these places

///G
 
Elpresidente!

I got something cool for you here. If you order this:
http://www1.conrad.de/scripts/wgate/zcop_b2c/~flN0YXRlPTM2NjcxMzU2NDA=?direkt_aufriss_area=SHOP_B2C_Components&~template=PCAT_AREA_S_browse&p_page_to_display=&catalogs_sub_id=sub13&aktiv=13&navi=oben_1

then you can take the front plate off and youll find a hole in the module chassi that is not used. Right behind that are holes in the PCB made for a swich (like the 1086). This one will fit right into this spot. If you look at it you'll understand. Now buy tho 250pF and put them in C14 and C15. Solder the swich into the holes and you have a midswitch! Both original and JCM 800 midrange!

The only problem is the front plate. It doesn't come with a hole in it. I usually use the amp without faceplates. It doesnt look super cool but it works fine. Maybe you can drill a hole through the faceplate for the new switch if you really wanna put it back on. Those are tuff to frill in though.
///G
 
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