Some cap and resistor info..

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Funny thing is I also have the SL+ schematics as well. Enjoy.

SL.jpg
 
Thanx Soulinsane,

You are really helping me to help others here. I sure appreciate it!

Im gonna try to break down your schematics to focus on the tone circuit, and that way try to explain a little about it.

///G
 
No problem. I find that its much easier to work on things when you have a full set of schematics.

One modification I'm going to try is to separate the B+ com ground from the audio com ground. I have no ideal why they are connected in the XL and SL+ modules because in the rest of the RM100 those grounds have their own dedicated paths. It just doesn't make since to connect the two other than to save a little on module PCB. If anything it creates a ground loop. I got an older Clean module and those grounds are separated so I know I didn't over look anything and the modification will work.

I'll let you all know how it sounds but first I have to finish this transformer upgrade :D
 
Please have a second look. Pin 24 ( B+ ground ) is connected to pin 3 ( audio ground ) on the SL+ and XL module PCB. I reflected that on the schematics. Both of those grounds have their own path inside the RM100. There is no reason to have them connected on the module PCB. In fact I have always though it better to keep the low voltage common and high voltage commons away from each other. They should only be electrically connected together via the chassis star ground.
 
Hello!!

Today i got the things and i began to solder. I pulled out the C3 and then my solder is broken. Now i must buy an other tomorrow :x .

But one QUestion is it equal in which directions i solder the caps.

I hope you understand what i mean. With the text right or left.

Thanks
 
am i missing something here or is there some kind of a race to see who "eff's" their amp into something totally different than a Randall first. :?: .. i mean these things are already the most versitle amp(randall or eggie) on the planet and blow's everything out of the water in or close to it's price range ...not meaning to fly in like a seagull and shattner on you modders here .. :D ... just want to hear some opinion's on why some people have a hard on to change stuff that in depth 8)
 
riff man said:
am i missing something here or is there some kind of a race to see who "eff's" their amp into something totally different than a Randall first. :?: .. i mean these things are already the most versitle amp(randall or eggie) on the planet and blow's everything out of the water in or close to it's price range ...not meaning to fly in like a seagull and shattner on you modders here .. :D ... just want to hear some opinion's on why some people have a hard on to change stuff that in depth 8)
LOL Because they can :D
 
riff man,

First of all, egnater modules have better components so a lot of these mods would be useless on an eggie. So far (at least not I) we did't not talk about modding egnater modules. So you say "is there some kind of a race to see who "eff's" their amp into something totally different than a Randall first". Well randall is a cheaper verson of egnater, so we just do upgrades.

Second, we did not go into the depth yet. So far it is only about making the mods recommended by randall more versitle.

Third, tone is personal and individual. Why just "accept" somebody elses tone, when you can mod it yourself.

BTW 1, I wonder why some artists got their own module series if they were happy with the original production series.

BTW 2, This part of the forum has the following header:

Modules
MTS module area including module modifications

So if you can't stand watching us sharing knowledge then there is a alot of other parts of this great forum to surf in to.

JMGMAN,
You are right! LOL, because we can!

///G
 
OK!!!

I 've done it.

First how do i notice if i have done something wrong.

I put it in and it sounds good on the first impression but i hear no difference when i switch over the second switch.

WHo do i notice if i solderd it false or if the switch is broken.

The next, first i soldered in a blue led but it doesnt light. I hope i haven't broken the PCB, because there is a small brown spot. I make some fotos when i'am at home so that you can habe a look at it.

But it isn the best solder work, i thought it would be easiers.
Here the link for the pics.
http://rapidshare.de/files/39518263/PCB.rar.html

Thanks
 
I have no application to open a *.RAR file.
Please put the photos into the forum in normal JPG (or something similar).

A good place to put photos is www.putfile.com. A lot of modders use this page to share drawings and photos.

///G
 
I downloaded winrar so I can see your pics.

Use alcohol to take the dirt off your solderings and then take new pictures. Hard for me to see. (Vodka on a paper towel is OK)

Try to take some solder of your LED connection. It looks like you shorted that one out. Not good.
///G
 
Hey i Ordered two leds. i put out the old and put in the new. It lights. super.

How can i controll that the switch work. Can i hear something when the switch is down.

LG
 
I think I made a mistake here, sorry.

I'm out of the country, so my sister will take pictures of my modded SL tomorrow. That is the easiest way to describe I think. Did you get any 500pF caps as well?

///G
 
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