Some cap and resistor info..

[Gee Donner]

Ok,

You and I have different issues of the SL+ or something. Ours don't look the same. I asked the RD guys on this forum, so let's see what they say. Maybe they can lead us in the right directon.

Fast fix,
But, if you want to get your tonestack working. Just take your 250pF c14 and c15 out and put one of your 500pf in the c14 spot, and youll get the JCM800 tonestack. If you do that, your swich is also going to be for no use. If you are happy with the sound after this, you probably don't need a switch, and could take it out (carefully). The switch is not very expensive (luckily) and you can always use it for another module (didn't you have an ULTRA?) that has the other layout like my SL on http://www.putfile.com/album/190165.

The problem is that I am out of the country for a while and don't have the tools to figure the "old" layout out.

Sorry for the missunderstandings here...
///G

 

[elpresidente99]

Hey i see no differnce the only thing is that the switch is on the other side, and this is because the other switch is also on the same side.

 

[Gee Donner]

Look again... There are a couple of differences. Look around my R18 and compare it to yours!

///G

 

[elpresidente99]

I can not find the r18 Area.


Now i see it i can make fotos if this helps you to help me out to use the switch.

 

[Soulinsane]

I see several things different :shock: Thats a weird looking SL.

 

[Gee Donner]

Thanx for the comment about my work in the other post!
BTW: Do you see the the mustard cap and OD combination behind the cover, that combination rocks!!!

Here is a pdf of the old issue (schematic of it). Any suggestions on how to make his switch the best way?
http://www.amp-rocks.com/drafts/SL_1.pdf

///G

 

[okstrat]

El presidente's is older than yours. See the glue leftovers from the screws? I'm betting his are black, yours are silver. They used that green goop to keep the black screws in place, until they switched over to silver with the star washers. You can also tell by where the switches are located - under the board = older module.

Pete

 

[elpresidente99]

@ okstrat

Is there anyway to make my old sl switchable. JYes i have black screws with that green glue.

Thanks at all

 

[Gee Donner]

There is always a way to make it switchable, but not without any mechanicasl changes as far as I see.
You could:

Be careful!

1.Take out the jumper from R40
2.Put the jumper in R32
3. cut off pin 3 on the swich, so it doesnt have any commection to the socket.
4. use your 500pF instead

this might pop a little bit when swiching, but this iis the best way I see now.

BTW how old is your module?
///G

 

[elpresidente99]

I don't know how old it is. I bought it one month ago used for about 150?:

lg

 

[elpresidente99]

HEY i have no jumper at r40 but on on r32.

LG

 

[Gee Donner]

I would change R1, R2 and R3 to 150Ohms as well. Then you don't risk to overload the optocouplers. Sounds better, I think.

///G

 

[elpresidente99]

hey what should i do. I have the jumper at R32 and no R40 jumper.

Should cut the pin 3 (what is the pin 3)

Where should i solder the 500pf you write 500 pf instead.

 

[Gee Donner]

You already changed it??? OK..

Well pin 3 is the pin that goes to the middle tap of the treble pot.

the 500pF's needs to go where the 250pF's are now.

///G

 

[elpresidente99]

NO! I changed nothing. Maybe i don't understand.

I have already a jumper at r32 and R40 no jumper. (a Jumper is a metal bridge????).

Here is a new foto session.

http://rapidshare.de/files/39536805/sl.zip.html

 

[Gee Donner]

You have a jumper in R40 NOT in R32!!!!

take it out from R40 and put it on R32 like I said before.
Look on these pictures.

This shows you what is R32 and R40:
http://www.putfile.com/pic/8207161

This shows what pin to cut off from the switch.
http://www.putfile.com/pic/8207021

Look at these in full size so you can see what I have written!

///G

 

[elpresidente99]

Ok now i checked it. Bad description on the pcb.

Thanks

I go to solder it i hope than it will work.

But why i should solder the 500pfs in.

Lg

 

[Gee Donner]

You can try to see if it works first with the 250PF's, just to see if the switch works. If you hear a difference when switching then it works (it might not sound good on one of the positions due to wrong value on the caps).

The reason is that i thought it was going to be a parallel switch (which it now isn't). Then it would have been 250 and when swiched 250+250pF=500.

In this case we serial the caps. meaning 500 (JCM800) and (500x500/(500+500)) = 250 (standard) when swiched.

Got it?

///G

 

[elpresidente99]

where do i get such a jumper because the old jumper is very hard to get back in.

LG

 

[Gee Donner]

it shoult fit easily. Try to bend it to fit or something.
or use a lead from a resistor or something.
///G