Some cap and resistor info..

[elpresidente99]

OK the next problem. I 'am broken my switch, i ordered another switch.

Can i use the sl now with the jumper at r32 without a switch which tone i have the stock sl+ right??


Greetz

 

[Gee Donner]

No its not going to sound any good with the two 250pf.

Go ahead and put in your two 500pF that way you'll get back to standard, until you get the new switch.

Before you go further, you should clean up your module from solder rests and flux. Use alcohol.
///G

 

[Soulinsane]

Thanx for the comment about my work in the other post!
BTW: Do you see the the mustard cap and OD combination behind the cover, that combination rocks!!!

Here is a pdf of the old issue (schematic of it). Any suggestions on how to make his switch the best way?
http://www.amp-rocks.com/drafts/SL_1.pdf

///G

I seen those caps. I've never tried the mustard/OD combo. looks pretty cool. I might try it if I ever order any mustard's again. As for helping with this mod... you nailed it. Remove lead 3 from the switch, jumper R32, and use 500pF in C14 and C15.

 

[Gee Donner]

Yeah, soulinsane, I hope it works 8)

But for what do you think they have used this old issue switch configuration. To me so far it doesen't seem to be good for anything. Ideas (out of curiosity)?

Maybe a gainswitch?

///G

 

[Soulinsane]

There are a few ways the switch can be used I can see. One thing I see is if R32 were left with no part the switch could be used to place R35 and C18 in parallel with the Level Control. Another thing the switch could be made to do is bypass the whole tone stack. It could be fun to play with.

 

[Gee Donner]

Did you get your Mercs into the amp yet? If so, how's it sound?
(I understand that you are paid to tell me it's wonderful, but anyway) :wink:

///G

 

[Soulinsane]

If this set blows then MM will take them back and most likely tweak the design. They are certain everyone will love the design though. It wasn't hard to improve the stock design in the first place it seems. For all the size of the stock trannys MM said they found very little copper in them. Perhaps just enough to make things work. No wonder some people blow fuses like crazy. I'm a tech/dealer but they don't pay me directly. I only make money by charging labor if I install the tranny's. I make a little profit from sales but it will never be enough to pay real bills. Overall being a tech/dealer adds to the income pile but its only a small part of the big picture.

I ordered the set Friday so they should have been shipped today or yesterday. Depending on how backed up UPS is from over the holiday, I expect them maybe Friday. I got to prep a few things and burn the new trannys in for a few hours, but I'll post a review. After that I have to write up a installation guide

 

[elpresidente99]

Hey GEE!!

I have to make a new order, what should I order for further things on Sl like you have, i saw many things OD and Mullards on your SL and when i have to order i can order these things at the same time.

I lost one silva mica, so i have to order one silva mica 500pf.

Thanks

 

[Gee Donner]

This is a really hard question, I don't know what your after.

You should change R1 R2 and R3 to 1/2 watt 150 Ohm
Try to upgrade your signalcaps with ODs or something similar (maybe TAD mustards).
This is all about taste.
Read my first post in this thread.
What are you after?

///G

 

[elpresidente99]

I have no idea, i only do what you guys say. What are the signal caps. Should i see which value it has and then the same value OD's.

Right??

dou you mean 150 kohm or 150ohm (is 1,5kohm the same as 150ohm)

Thanks

 

[Gee Donner]

Well,

If you don't know what you want, then you should stop modifying your stuff immediately. The Modules are good compromises out of the shelf.

I wrote 150ohms and I mean 150ohms. It's not the same thing as 1,5k
///G

 

[elpresidente99]

Yes i know what i want, a better clarity and warmth sounding Stock Sl+ and switchable to a Jcm 800 module.

On Tubetown i can't see a 150ohm resistor.

Greetz

 

[Soulinsane]

That's the problem with parts both local or online. No one has everything you will ever need or want You got to find multiple sources and know how to shop around.

 

[elpresidente99]

IN which genre of shops i can go to find such a resistors. I can't find 150ohm resistors.

LG

 

[elpresidente99]

Can i Take this it isn 0,5watt.

http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p1260_Metalloxidschicht-Widerstand--2-Watt--150-Ohm.html

 

[Soulinsane]

Can i Take this it isn 0,5watt.

http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p1260_Metalloxidschicht-Widerstand--2-Watt--150-Ohm.html

You can use greater than .5W but 2W :shock: LMFAO, they might be nearly 3cm long!

Edit: I'm kidding. They will be fine but they will be larger. Expect that. You have room on the PCB so make use of it.

 

[TheHunter]

So I want to change my Rectified module into the Grail persay, So i have already taken the 470k out and put the 150k in at R1-3 and the C3 is at .001 600v and i like it but i have heard others putting in an even lower value like 500pf or something. Is there any other values that i should change, any thing i should be aware of, perhaps i can install a second switch to enable muliple tone options. Any advise would be great.


Thanks.

The Hunter

 

[SacredGroove]

So I want to change my Rectified module into the Grail persay, So i have already taken the 470k out and put the 150k in at R1-3 and the C3 is at .001 600v and i like it but i have heard others putting in an even lower value like 500pf or something. Is there any other values that i should change, any thing i should be aware of, perhaps i can install a second switch to enable muliple tone options. Any advise would be great.


Thanks.

The Hunter

Grail C3 is .0005. Way, way tight.

 

[elpresidente99]

Hey GEE!!

I want to mod the signal path of my sl with better parts like you, but how i see which value the caps have.

What i have done.
C3 orange drops
second switch with c14 and c15 500pf, jumper at R32 ( it work)
R1, R2, R3 150 ohm Resistors
and R31 33k

What i want to change is C16, C17 to OD's, C8 and C9 to Mullards
R30 and R25 to carbon compositories.

Is this Ok???

The next is i want a three way switch for C3 but i don't know which switch work. Pleas give an example on the conrand site.

Upper Position a certain value
Middle Position stock value
down Position a other value

The values i think upper position 0,001u
middle position 0,0022u
down postion 0,0047u

You think it is ok???

Thanks

 

[Gee Donner]

You can try 1/2 watt carbon compositions in R25 and R30. They will affect the tone a tiny bit, but will give you a little bit more background niose. Keep the old resistors for these spots if you don't like the extra noise you get, so you can out them back in.

Replacing the C16, C17 with OD is fine. You will probably get a tighter more trebly sound then. C8, C9 are fine with mullards (do you have mullards?? they are expensive/ hard to find). If you have a lot I might wanna buy some from you.

Here is one way to do the swich. If you go ahead and try this try without the B caps first, to see if you need them or not.

http://www.putfile.com/pic/8265930
You can use this Conrad article: 701150 - 62

This switching can cause a pop, if it does, you can put a 2.2 or 3.3meg resistor from the center pin to ground. the best is to use a 1meg, if it does not affect the sound.

Do you like the sound of the module as it is now?

///G