Suggested Orange drop value in the input cap of my RM100?

[MYDEMISE]

I have a bunch of orange drops and want to know the exact numbers / letters on the caps I should try on the input cap of my RM100. I tend to like an orage drop in the c3 of the modules and figure it may be an improvement on the amp itself. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

[kylendm]

Stock it is a .1uf. Remember to discharge the amp! You can die!!!!

You could also wire a switch to get the low end of the power section tighter or looser.

 

[MYDEMISE]

I have an orange drop .1 that is 600v. The one in the amp is 400v. Is it ok to use the 600volt orange drop in place of the stock 400v cap?

 

[JKD]

I have an orange drop .1 that is 600v. The one in the amp is 400v. Is it ok to use the 600volt orange drop in place of the stock 400v cap?

Yes.

 

[MYDEMISE]

Well I changed the cap on the amps input. Makes my grail module sound real close to my dual rec. The Mr. scary now sounds lacking in bite and gain and the amps overall tone got more thumpy and wide although darker. If I used a 400v I am thinking it will be sweeter and a bit more focused? I am also considering buying a .22 but have none at the moment. I would need to get them asap though.

 

[Shinozoku]

It actually seems that maybe a .05uF would work better to get rid of the darkness and make it tighter and more pristine The Voltage rating on there is just the amount of signal it can take, whereas the uF or pF rating on it is what affects the tone.

I personally would like to go through and recap a lot of my amp with Orange Drops of Red Wimas (or a mix) just to see how it will help the overall amp sound If I get great results I may even start doing it for cash >.>

 

[MYDEMISE]

The orange drop is huge that is in there now. I have a .22 orange drop but it is way too big to put in place of the stock one. I wonder if I am even using the right cap size? here is a pic

 

[Shinozoku]

You're using the right size. Orange Drops are just colossal caps

 

[MYDEMISE]

Is it ok to use a .047 there? it is a bit smaller and reads 473j 600volt Would this be less or more dark than the one in the pic? would it have more thump or less thump than the one in the pic? I know on modules the larger the number the looser and more thump. I believe modules us .0047 not .047 correct?

 

[Shinozoku]

The mod C3 uses usually .01uF (which translates to 1000pF or picofarads), however the tone stack uses values that are ten times that. It would tighten it up, less thump, and probably less dark.

 

[MYDEMISE]

I am mainly concerned with the amps c4 cap not the modules although I am dabbling in that. Would I need a 474j or 473j orange drop in place of the amps stock 104j mylar?

 

[eedude]

The mod C3 uses usually .01uF (which translates to 1000pF or picofarads), however the tone stack uses values that are ten times that. It would tighten it up, less thump, and probably less dark.

quick correction:
0.01uF is
10nF is
10000pF

 

[kylendm]

wabam!

http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html

 

[MYDEMISE]

Thanks

 

[HughJasol]

The orange drop is huge that is in there now. I have a .22 orange drop but it is way too big to put in place of the stock one. I wonder if I am even using the right cap size?

Try the 716P series drop caps rather than the 715P series. The 716P will be the same length, but will be skinnier and not as fat and round as their 715P series counterparts. The only drawback is that the 716P series cost about double the 715P series . . .

 

[JKD]

You should start at half the stock value or thereabouts.

 

[m0jo]

Little tip: try WIMA caps.

They are normal sized and also higher quality, Anthony's preferred choice.

They don't look as much like they're sprinkled with fairy dust, but that's it

 

[eedude]

the value of 0.1uF was selected to be tone neutral and allow the cap on the module to dictate the freq response for that module. It would seem that if a module does not have the tone you want AND the coupling cap between stage 1 and stage 2 is the tonal issue, then the mod belongs on the module.

Lets look at some calculations
If the Module has:
0.0022uF, effective coupling cap value is 0.00215uF
0.022uF, effective coupling cap value is 0.018uF

so a module with 0.022 takes about a 15% hit form the 0.1uF... from my experience that would be hardly discernible. but... if you are to change the cap, I'd go larger not smaller and allow the module to do it's thing.

 

[m0jo]

the value of 0.1uF was selected to be tone neutral and allow the cap on the module to dictate the freq response for that module. It would seem that if a module does not have the tone you want AND the coupling cap between stage 1 and stage 2 is the tonal issue, then the mod belongs on the module.

Lets look at some calculations
If the Module has:
0.0022uF, effective coupling cap value is 0.00215uF
0.022uF, effective coupling cap value is 0.018uF

so a module with 0.022 takes about a 15% hit form the 0.1uF... from my experience that would be hardly discernible. but... if you are to change the cap, I'd go larger not smaller and allow the module to do it's thing.

so what you're saying is technically you could remove the cap in the amp altogether, bridge it, and then increase the values on the modules accordingly?
Then you have full control per module over the coupling cap value..

 

[eedude]

so what you're saying is technically you could remove the cap in the amp altogether, bridge it, and then increase the values on the modules accordingly? Then you have full control per module over the coupling cap value..

well, that's not really what I was saying. While you could do that, I would not jumper it. If you did that there would be like ~200V on that line going to the modules. That is not something I would recommend. BUT, a 0.1uF or 0.2uF or larger is effectively "not there" compared to what is on the module.

For anyone who is unaware, two caps in series follow this formula:
Ceff = C1*C2/(C1+C2)

(yes, that is that same formula as r's in parallel..... )