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I think your best bet is to spray paint the ones you have...Hit them with a straight black or chrome and boom, new blank faceplate...:)

Then put your sticker (see-thru or colored) on and hit it with a layer of glaze...That's what I do...
 
I may be a little nuts, or at least sleep deprived, but I would think getting a piece of metal the same thickness & cut to the same dimensions would be the ticket. Of course the control holes would have to be cut as well. But this seems doable. Now if only I had the tools to see if I am really wacky or on to something.

I recall another member mentioning they did a similar thing as above, but using plexi glass.
 
Hamner1 said:
I may be a little nuts, or at least sleep deprived, but I would think getting a piece of metal the same thickness & cut to the same dimensions would be the ticket. Of course the control holes would have to be cut as well. But this seems doable. Now if only I had the tools to see if I am really wacky or on to something.

I recall another member mentioning they did a similar thing as above, but using plexi glass.
it would be kinda hard to get it precise w/o a mill. though it should be plausible. Might even give us some new kinds of custom work. Maybe some 3D/textured stuff? Etching? I might have to look into some of this myself. Good thing i have access to a well-equipped machine shop :D :twisted: If i come up with anything i will share it with you guys.
 
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes
because then you are a mile away
AND you have their shoes"

:lol:
 
Okay, that's it, I am going out and grabbing some inexpensive sheet metal.
then all I need is a CNC machine hooked to Autocad and I am set, no problem
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CNC company won't finance for me, now I'm screwed....
 
I made mine from brass that I got from Hobbytown. I chose brass for the Marshall simulation but they have copper, aluminum and even stainless in various sizes and thicknesses. Brass is much softer than steel. I fixed one corner of the original face plate on to one corner of the plate as a guide the used a scratch awl to mark the location of the original holes as well as the outer edge of the plate. Then use an auto center punch to mark the hole centers. The two that are the most difficult with be the holes for the slot for the bright switch. Here place two holes, one on each end of the slot then space some apart through the middle. This can be cleaned up with a small file or a dremel. Brass and aluminum can be polished or painted but will need to be roughed up a bit and hit with an epoxy type primer to set a durable base. I just fine sanded mine in one direction and had the controls laser marked by a guy I work with who has a laser marker at home now! If you want some picks just pm me your email address and I can send them to you. It is easier to do than to spell out. Plus the material cost is so small it doesn't matter if you hose a few first.
 
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