So, I modded the input cap on my RM50...

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JKD

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..didn't quite have the big change I expected.

I went from .1uF to .022uF, which is roughly 1/4 of the value....didn't lose a phenomenal amount of low end but what's weird is that the whole amp seemed to get smoother.

I even used the same type of cap (although it had a 630V rating)...I think this requires further experimentation.
 
Sounds pretty interesting indeed. I might try this my self. Try and get it as tight as possible and see what happens.

http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/CD135/0.005uF+.005uF+500V+Ceramic+Disc+Capacitors.html

try it lol. Doubt it'll work though.
 
kylendm said:
Sounds pretty interesting indeed. I might try this my self. Try and get it as tight as possible and see what happens.

http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/CD135/0.005uF+.005uF+500V+Ceramic+Disc+Capacitors.html

try it lol. Doubt it'll work though.

I was out shopping today and I contemplated ceramics because they add an edge to the tone in the modules...can be good or bad....I've heard that they can be prone to microphonics tho'
 
wengnutt said:
riff man said:
my actuall RM4 has been modded !!

What mod has been done to your RM4? I'd love to know!

me too!!!!

not sure !! i always just got a smile from the guy who modded it !!! and i never looked into it !! all he said was that the RM4 by nature is a tubby sounding unit ... mine however is not !!!

i let my ears do the judging and i have not been on the market for a new amp for almost 2yrs now ..
 
It's about 12-18 screws to get into an RM4 to look tho...heh

The mod is the same though as far as I know.
 
JKD said:
It's about 12-18 screws to get into an RM4 to look tho...heh


Tell me about it, changing the midi dipswitches is 1 thing I never want to do again
(why it wasn't mounted to the back for easy acces I don't know)
 
Jaded Faith said:
Steve,
Any pics of the work available? I plan to hop into my RM100 soon after I get some work knocked out this week.
Rob

I think I put pics in Pete's thread (oops). After experimenting with the value (.022, .047 and .050uF), I decided against putting a switch in. The perfect value for my ears is 1/2 of stock. Here's pics pre-mod:

In case anyone was wondering about this mod for an RM50, this is the input board (I already removed the screws)

51f2dad3.jpg


03e6cbe4.jpg


That little brown cap in there on the input board is 104J (100,000pf = 0.1uF at 5% tolerance and it's 400V)
 

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