....Bruce,.........

[Mattfig]

Hey George,

I have a couple GCXs and a GCP...Although I don't know if they will do a relay or latching switch...I'll try to read up...

In the meantime, I am solving a similar problem using Loop Master...

http://www.loop-master.com/product_info.php?products_id=96

But be cautioned that turnaround is slow as they're built individually...If you email the company your question, they will provide a reasonably priced solution...Or at least another valuable opinion...

 

[MarcoR]

If I already own a ground control and a GCX do I need it???
GtrGeorge

NO YOU DON'T! Check page 10 of the GCX user manual. Cut the cable right off your fooswitch, strip an end, plug the connector end it into the footswitch jack on the amp, touch each wire to ground and figure out what connections do what. Solder 1/4 jacks and rock midi channel switching. Be sightly careful if the footswitch is powered.

 

[GtrGeorge!]

wow...
couple of cool ideas here...my studio is going back on line..and all my gear (including soldering iron) are coming out of storage..

might have to try Marco's idea first...
although it seems to good to be true. I think if the GCX makes it possible to switch amp channels AND midi program changes simultaneously..then I am set. Its another rack to bring around...some more wires but it may be totally worth it.
I would get: 1) more flexible Fx programming from my Gmaj2
2) a usable DI out from the RM22 for PA re-inforcement
in big rooms
3) one tap changes (NESCESSARY!!!) for channel AND midi
very important stuff to me
especially because I run as many as 4 midi devices at a live gig...and tap dancing is NOT an option between every song for an entire night!

Thank you all for sharing your knowledge.
GtrGeorge

 

[MarcoR]

Another option that?s less invasive than hacking the cable and guessing which wires do what would be to add three ? jacks to the footswitch and connect the tip and sleeve to the lugs on the switches. Then connect cables from the jacks to three Out/N.O jacks on the GCX and configure them for momentary switching.

You can test this fairly easily with alligator clips connected to one of the footswitches lugs and then to a cable plugged into the GCX. But make sure the jack on the GXC is set to momentary. Of course in this scenario you?d still be hauling around the old footswitch but it would be in tucked in your rack.

If you go the other route and try to make a custom cable, as you test the connections (shorting each wire to the ground wire) you?ll likely hear an audible pop when the channels switch; part of the circuitry in the footswitch softens the pop. The GCX should do the same (soften any pops) but I don?t know for sure.

It would be a cool set up having channels switching on presets and have the boost on an IA switch!

Edit: This second option is basically what mOjo suggested to you in the other thread.

 

[Mattfig]

****, between Rob and MarcoR there's some killer info in this thread!

Suggest PIN!

Wait, wrong forum...

 

[m0jo]

If I already own a ground control and a GCX do I need it???
GtrGeorge

NO YOU DON'T! Check page 10 of the GCX user manual. Cut the cable right off your fooswitch, strip an end, plug the connector end it into the footswitch jack on the amp, touch each wire to ground and figure out what connections do what. Solder 1/4 jacks and rock midi channel switching. Be sightly careful if the footswitch is powered.

This will NOT work.

Like I said, this footswitch is not your regular "latching swith" deal, there is digital stuff in there and it sends a digital signal. It just isn't (true) midi.

JF, like I said: the footswitch is a modified RF3 (it's even printed on the PCB) and there is a board inside the amp quite similar to the midi board in the RM4 and RM100's. It's quite likely they started out with the RM4 board and let some engineer hack it to have it do what they want.

Sending certain combinations of note-on and off can switch the channels! But there is no logic in it whatsoever that I can find. This why I said a replacement chip might be the solution: the system is already there .. it's just been hacked to do something it wasn't originally intented for .. probably to save a few bucks (so they didn't have to make/order special chips or boards for the footswitches).


Edit:
DO NOT connect any of the wires together from the cable!!!!
You can blow a fuse in the midi board in the amp ... like I just did 5 minute ago, verifying my own story. @#$%!!
Anyway, as I'll have to get in there anyways now to put a new fuse in, I'll make some detailed gutshots tomorrow.
The amp is still usable but I have to now power the footswitch with a wallwart :?

 

[GtrGeorge!]

Mojo,
sorry that you had a fuse go on you...I wish that did not happen.
To be clear:I may just drop the amp off with Jadedfaith and see what he can do..I am so bad at soldering and such that it makes good sense. I am givingthis serious thought..eventhough I havent done any prior bizness with him.
Im thinking about it.
GtrGeorge

 

[m0jo]

Mojo,
sorry that you had a fuse go on you...I wish that did not happen.
To be clear:I may just drop the amp off with Jadedfaith and see what he can do..I am so bad at soldering and such that it makes good sense. I am givingthis serious thought..eventhough I havent done any prior bizness with him.
Im thinking about it.
GtrGeorge

Shizz happens, now I know not to do stupid stuff like that anymore haha.

 

[MarcoR]

Edit:
DO NOT connect any of the wires together from the cable!!!!
You can blow a fuse in the midi board in the amp ... like I just did 5 minute ago, verifying my own story. @#$%!!
Anyway, as I'll have to get in there anyways now to put a new fuse in, I'll make some detailed gutshots tomorrow.
The amp is still usable but I have to now power the footswitch with a wallwart :?

Well that's a bummer... I did say if it were me, that's what I try and? I would have likely experienced the same results.

Still, knowing the outer pins are hot, I would have identified those wires and avoided contact. I also probably would have changed the fuse after blowing it and kept probing. But then again I am a hack and it?s how I learn. Bottom line is if you don?t know what you?re doing then you probably shouldn?t mess with it and if you do, it?s at your own risk.

I still think the second option I suggested would work but I don?t own this amp and really have no idea. I?m basing my assumptions on the similarity of the footswitch internal images I?ve seen that look very similar to the TSL footswitch which I?ve had success in mapping. That was the second time I used the word assume and you know what that means?


George, I think taking it to Rob is the best idea and I?m sure he will find a solution.

 

[m0jo]

Edit:
DO NOT connect any of the wires together from the cable!!!!
You can blow a fuse in the midi board in the amp ... like I just did 5 minute ago, verifying my own story. @#$%!!
Anyway, as I'll have to get in there anyways now to put a new fuse in, I'll make some detailed gutshots tomorrow.
The amp is still usable but I have to now power the footswitch with a wallwart :?

Well that's a bummer... I did say if it were me, that's what I try and? I would have likely experienced the same results.

Still, knowing the outer pins are hot, I would have identified those wires and avoided contact. I also probably would have changed the fuse after blowing it and kept probing. But then again I am a hack and it?s how I learn. Bottom line is if you don?t know what you?re doing then you probably shouldn?t mess with it and if you do, it?s at your own risk.

I still think the second option I suggested would work but I don?t own this amp and really have no idea. I?m basing my assumptions on the similarity of the footswitch internal images I?ve seen that look very similar to the TSL footswitch which I?ve had success in mapping. That was the second time I used the word assume and you know what that means?


George, I think taking it to Rob is the best idea and I?m sure he will find a solution.

I knew the outer ones where hot but accidentally touched one... go figure.

 

[gag halfrunt]

Edit:
DO NOT connect any of the wires together from the cable!!!!
You can blow a fuse in the midi board in the amp ... like I just did 5 minute ago, verifying my own story. @#$%!!
Anyway, as I'll have to get in there anyways now to put a new fuse in, I'll make some detailed gutshots tomorrow.
The amp is still usable but I have to now power the footswitch with a wallwart :?

Well that's a bummer... I did say if it were me, that's what I try and? I would have likely experienced the same results.

Still, knowing the outer pins are hot, I would have identified those wires and avoided contact. I also probably would have changed the fuse after blowing it and kept probing. But then again I am a hack and it?s how I learn. Bottom line is if you don?t know what you?re doing then you probably shouldn?t mess with it and if you do, it?s at your own risk.

I still think the second option I suggested would work but I don?t own this amp and really have no idea. I?m basing my assumptions on the similarity of the footswitch internal images I?ve seen that look very similar to the TSL footswitch which I?ve had success in mapping. That was the second time I used the word assume and you know what that means?


George, I think taking it to Rob is the best idea and I?m sure he will find a solution.

I knew the outer ones where hot but accidentally touched one... go figure.

Been there, done that, GOT THE SHOCK.

Except it was on the preamp caps on an amp. I was so sure I had drained them beforehand...

 

[GtrGeorge!]

Its gig season so Im busy playing live
I will get back on this problem once things cool down. In the meantime I am using a different amp..sadly.

GtrGeorge