Some cap and resistor info..

[elpresidente99]

OK that sounds Cool!!!

THis should i do is this right

for C3 Orange Drop 0,0022 ?F @ 600 V - 716???
for R31 Carbon Composition 0,5 Watt - 33 kOhm
for C14 and C15 a 250pf Cap (or one 250 and one 500)

ANd the switch, but link doesn`t function.

Than i have a more Warmth and clarity stock SL+ and with a switch a JCM 800 like sound.

Is this right??

THat sounds amazing!!

 

[Gee Donner]

sorry for the link. go to www.conrads.de and find article number
705179 - 62

That is the swich.

I like the sound of OD 715 better, but they are bigger. It will fit, but if you wanna go for 716 thats ok.

Silver micas are cheap so just get two of each. That way you can try it out and if you figure you dont like the swich, then you have an extra 500pF. With the swich option I mean 2x 250 pF. They will be paralelled so it's going to be 250 + 250 =500pF once you got the swich engaged. otherwise it will be 250. If you want to I can also figure out for you how to put a swich to change in between different C3 caps 8)

for C3 Orange Drop 0,0022 ?F @ 600 V - 716??? -OK, but I'd go for 715
for R31 Carbon Composition 0,5 Watt - 33 kOhm -YES
for C14 and C15 a 250pf Cap (or one 250 and one 500) -two of each. You will actually only need 2x250pF. Get two 500pF also anyway. Just so you get rid of the swich if you want.

The silver micas from Tubetown are the ones that I like.
///G

 

[elpresidente99]

Hey i orderd all the things. When the things coming i will contact you.

Please help to mod it. Thanks.

LG

 

[Gee Donner]

no problem. Just use the camera if you have one. A picture tells more than 1000 words 8)

///G

 

[SacredGroove]

I didn't see this mentioned, so I'll mention it: You'll have to drill a hole thru the faceplate for the switch in order to re-attach it. They are a ***** to drill, too, so, I'd recommend using a drill press. Set it for cutting metal.

 

[Gee Donner]

Elpresidente!

I got something cool for you here. If you order this:
http://www1.conrad.de/scripts/wgate/zcop_b2c/~flN0YXRlPTM2NjcxMzU2NDA=?direkt_aufriss_area=SHOP_B2C_Components&~template=PCAT_AREA_S_browse&p_page_to_display=&catalogs_sub_id=sub13&aktiv=13&navi=oben_1

then you can take the front plate off and youll find a hole in the module chassi that is not used. Right behind that are holes in the PCB made for a swich (like the 1086). This one will fit right into this spot. If you look at it you'll understand. Now buy tho 250pF and put them in C14 and C15. Solder the swich into the holes and you have a midswitch! Both original and JCM 800 midrange!

The only problem is the front plate. It doesn't come with a hole in it. I usually use the amp without faceplates. It doesnt look super cool but it works fine. Maybe you can drill a hole through the faceplate for the new switch if you really wanna put it back on. Those are tuff to frill in though.
///G

Already mentioned, scaredgroove 8)

///G

 

[SacredGroove]

****, I thought I was contributing.

 

[Gee Donner]

Everybody are contributing. Do you have experience from modding modules too?

I'm always curious for new ideas and sollutions. There are NO shortcuts to the perfect soud!

By the way, I just draw a schematic of the SL+. By looking at the schematic I found that there are alot of really cool things you can do to this module.. More gain more bottom brighter midrange etc. And I was actually surprised how similar it is to a original 2203/2204 (JCM 800) pramp circuit... Cool!

BTW, I love vintage marshalls!
///G

 

[elpresidente99]

Do i need more Gain for Jcm800 mod that i want to do??? Because you write above more gain.

LG

 

[Gee Donner]

Maybe I don't understand your question....
No, you don't need more gain to do the mod. Unless you want more of course! 8)
///G

 

[SacredGroove]

Everybody are contributing. Do you have experience from modding modules too?

I'm always curious for new ideas and sollutions. There are NO shortcuts to the perfect soud!

By the way, I just draw a schematic of the SL+. By looking at the schematic I found that there are alot of really cool things you can do to this module.. More gain more bottom brighter midrange etc. And I was actually surprised how similar it is to a original 2203/2204 (JCM 800) pramp circuit... Cool!

BTW, I love vintage marshalls!
///G

I bought a used module to tinker with. I learned a lot from doing that. I also swap a lot of components for different kinds, such OD's and Carbon Comp's. I had a Clean and found a great mod for it, but then I sold it to get a Blackface...LOL. :roll:

I have the JCM800 mod and wouldn't have the SL+ any other way. :twisted:

 

[Gee Donner]

Did you do any voicing mods to it? Like changing the cathode components or groundouts?

I just modded a plexi, and believe it or not but it has MUCH more gain than the stock SL+. It sounds sick! Just by changeing a couple of values and a couple of caps to the circuit. Sounds like slash or van halen!

Next, I'm working on a way to put in another tube on the module. I've done it before and I know its possible. I have came up with a circuit that sounds alot like the SIR #39! I will give you guys the schematic. I just wanna try it first to make sure there is no problems with it.

My plexi head already has this mod.

///G

 

[elpresidente99]

Hey GEE!!

Do you also know how to make a stock Ultra Modul switchable to have a Ultra stock and a Ultra Xl.

My next Module will be a Ultra but i don't know which one.

With this mod the question would be unnecessary. :twisted:

Thanks

LG

 

[Gee Donner]

I don't use the Ultra or Ultra XL, but anything is possible. I just have to figure it out for you. It is hard to get the EXACT right circuit in both modes. But with a little bit of compromizing it can be done! Barely audible compromizes though. Let me look in to it!

///G

 

[SacredGroove]

Did you do any voicing mods to it? Like changing the cathode components or groundouts?

///G

I switched C14 cap to 147p (150p maybe) and C1 to .0015u. Bare with me, I'm still new with the conversions, and such. I also used a 12AU7 in V1. It gave me tons of headroom and a bit of life. Not so boomy and not stuck in the mid-scooped hole.

 

[elpresidente99]

Hello!!

I Compared the schematics of the ultra and the ultra XL.

On the first view i saw 3 differences.

C3
Ultra= 0,0047
Ultra XL= 0,0015

R31
Ultra= 33K
Ultra XL= 47K

C14
Ultra= 100pf
Ultra XL= 450pf

Gee is there any easy way to make them switchable ???

Thanks

LG

 

[Gee Donner]

Ok, I didn't study the schematics myself yet but if you have the values correct than it would be possible with one swich, but I recommend 1 DPDT and One SPST swich for this. One swich that takes care of the tonestack and one that does the C3 shifting. That way you have very flexible module. You cold go with three swiches if you wanted to to get even more flexible, but that I think, would be too much and unnessecary.

You could aso use one swich, but then you are less flexible.

///G

 

[Soulinsane]

I don't have the ultra but I have the Ultra XL. I proofed and drew up my own schematic for it. The actual cad file has high resolution zoom but here is a jpeg of my stock XL. Hope this helps.

It seems that stock modules sometimes have different values of parts depending when they were made. It no surprise to me that some people love a curtain module while others will hate it. Chances are they got a module with different part values.

 

[Gee Donner]

Thanx man! That was worth a lot. :lol: :lol: :lol:

///G

 

[elpresidente99]

Ok gee i have no idea how do i do it. Can you gibe exact link what i should buy and where do i solder it to.

That was great.

Thanks

LG